Marc Jacobs Fall 2017 NYFW Show Review

Photo: WWD/REX/Shutterstock.

There are a few consistent factors about Marc Jacobs' biannual show: It always closes out New York Fashion Week. It (almost) always takes place at the Park Avenue Armory. It always starts right on time. And as soon as editors take their seats, no one really knows what's about to go down. The ensuing catwalk action might not always be well-received, but it reliably gets people talking. On paper, fall '17 was seemingly set up for spectacle: Per the show notes, the collection was inspired by the Netflix documentary series, Hip-Hop Evolution, and Jacobs' own upbringing in New York. ("This collection is my representation of the well-studied dressing up of casual sportswear," the notes read.) But the execution wasn't the elaborate production one might've expected. First up, there was no intricate set — instead, two rows of seats faced each other, a few feet apart, running the length of the Park Avenue Armory. Editors were instructed to put away their phones, as the show would be a social media-free zone. (Can you just hear communal gasps from the fashion flock?) There was no audio involved, either: The models strutted out, with the sound of their own platform boots clicking against the wooden floor providing the show's soundtrack. (And the running commentary of those invited.)

AdvertisementADVERTISEMENT

There is beauty in simplicity #MarcJacobs #BackToBasics #ThatsAWrap #DoneAndDusted #NYFW #MJFW17

A post shared by Matthew Bires (@matthewbires) on Feb 16, 2017 at 12:06pm PST

New York Fashion Week is over and it ended with a much needed jolt of energy at the Armory. @themarcjacobs staged an excellent 6 minutes of theater--sparse set, no music, folding chairs with impersonal numbers stenciled on the back--an homage to early Hip Hop set in an urban cavern. It's hard to explain how happy it made me, but coming out of the show to find all the models against a wall of speakers in the street felt like the great, big, loud statement I needed. While this was happening Trump was giving his most unhinged press conference yet (which is saying a lot). We must take a second to enjoy happy moments where ever we can.

A post shared by Stella Bugbee (@stellabugbee) on Feb 16, 2017 at 11:51am PST

No music, no set, no lights—nothing but the clothes at Marc Jacobs. Just the beat-up armory hall, metal chairs, a musty smell. Could hear the buyers (men) across from me: "If you trip in those shoes do you sprain your ankle?"

A post shared by Thessaly La Force (@thessaly) on Feb 16, 2017 at 12:19pm PST

There was little to distract from the fur-lined coats, the collared knits, and the minidresses being shown, all if which nodded to '80s and '90s streetwear culture. It was an unorthodox presentation, sure — unexpectedly (and literally) quiet. But attendees came to pretty much the same conclusion: The tables had been turned, and it was, perhaps, just what New York Fashion Week needed.

I am so inspired! The @themarcjacobs show changed the game again. Imagine the Armory (football field size raw space) with just a line of front row seats, no music and an amazing collection. From the accessories to the coats, shoes to sparkle skirts coming down the runway on beautiful, diverse models in silence. The clothes stood alone. Marc needed nothing but his beautiful designs to speak for themselves. He wrote a beautiful piece in the program titled "Respect" speaking of a documentary called "Hip-Hop Evolution" that inspired this season. I was moved and energized. Sometimes the removal of pageantry makes for the loudest expression that can be made. This is modern! Speechless.

A post shared by Drew Elliott (@drewpsie) on Feb 16, 2017 at 11:47am PST

In true @marcjacobs style, his show today, which wrapped up #nyfw2017 was anything but what we expected...staged at a barren but beautiful New York Armory, the show was almost the anti-show (which I truly loved) with no music, photographers, fancy seating, or delays--with a start time at 2, we were out on the street at 2:09! Minus the frills, the collection, which took a page (or many) from the documentary, #thebirthofhiphop was completely amplified, as was the experience, which felt calming and almost meditative with each model's footsteps providing the only soundtrack. In the show notes, Marc refers to himself as "a born and bred New Yorker" and his constant blending of history with youth, fantasy, and promise felt like the local love letter we needed today, maybe everyday (at least for a while)...thank you, Marc ❤ @r29fashion #r29fw

A post shared by Christene Barberich (@christenebarberich) on Feb 16, 2017 at 12:27pm PST

Jacobs offered an antidote to all the hoopla that too often defines NYFW (and Fashion Month in general): the noise, the embellishment, the exaggerated showmanship. By stripping his presentation of all of those pretenses, Jacobs' designs could be appreciated. Everyone had a front-row seat (something Jacobs has done before), arranged in a way that put the audience in close proximity to the models as they walked straight out of the Armory and out into the actual street — a sort of full-circle journey from Jacobs' inspiration board to the real world, where the garments are eventually meant to end up.

When @marcjacobs asks you not to take any photos of the runway show and just enjoy the moment. Per usual @marcjacobs ends NYFW with a surprise. This time as we walked into the venue we were told not to take any photos. The models walked down the long runway to NO music at all. It was pure silence... no distractions, no phones, no added props... just the clothes. Perhaps fashion week has gotten to a place where it's no longer about just the collection? Thank you @marcjacobs for recentering our focus and attention to the CLOTHES and the collection. Reminding us what fashion week is truly about. When the show ended we walked out of the venue and funny enough all the models were out posing with their phones in hand taking selfies. I think the takeaway from all this was...There's a time and place for everything , so put the phones away and enjoy the moment. And oh.... the collection was ??????a tribute to the streets and the evolution of hip hop. #MJfw17 #marcjacobs #nyfw

A post shared by Chriselle Lim ? 임소정 (@chrisellelim) on Feb 16, 2017 at 12:09pm PST

The finale wasn't merely symbolic of the collection — it was also Jacobs' last jab at typical Fashion Week behavior. As editors were fishing their phones out of their bags, they were greeted by the fall '17 lineup, sitting back in fold-out chairs outside of the venue, snapping pictures of the editors. This cheeky take on art imitating life led to some very meta (and self-aware) content.