I Got ‘Candlelit Brunette’ Hair — & Wish I’d Done It Sooner

When it comes to my beauty routine, I'm always willing to switch things up. If a blush goes viral on TikTok, I'm not afraid to shelve my current one, and if a facialist tells me a new moisturiser should be on my radar, I'll pick it up immediately. But despite my willingness to stick any beauty concoction on my face, I've been very reluctant to change my hair. Until now, that is.

Thanks to trends like 'liquid brunette', 'glow lights', and 'tweed blonde' I've coveted a shiny new colour for years. However, fearing that I'd be stuck with an entirely unflattering bleached hue on my very dark hair, I've coddled my virgin lengths. But we've entered a new year and it's time for a change. The shade in question? 'Candlelit brunette', a hair colour trend that promises to lift and enhance dark hair in a subtle way (ideal for beginners like me).

As the rather beautiful name suggests, the candlelit brunette hair colour (currently trending on TikTok, of course) enlists subtle babylights (minimal highlights) peppered throughout the lengths to lift the hair to a sort of caramel-esque brunette, as though each strand is bathed in candlelight. This lit-from-within gleam (as seen on the likes of Kaia Gerber) is warm, mellow, and soft. It takes the hair's natural colour and lifts it by weaving in thin strands of a much lighter colour. For my first step into the world of hair dye, I entrusted Carmel Blackburne, master colourist at John Frieda Salons, with creating the look. 

"Candlelit brunette is essentially a shimmer of colour which runs through the hair, elevated by movement," Blackburne told me in the chair. "It illuminates the natural colour and is designed to catch the light to create reflection," much like this stunning result by Natalia Vera, a balayage specialist and educator at Live True London. The barely-there strands of colour mimic the way hair glistens on an evening by the fire or under soft lighting.

Blackburne explained that the effect is achieved by creating a seamless blend of colour. "Backcombing and teasing each section of hair stops the dye going all the way to the root," she said, "which prevents a clear line of colour." This makes the final look far more natural, rather than stripe-y (typical of most highlights) or too light (like balayage). "It's also important to colour in zig-zag sections," added Blackburne, "rather than normal highlight sections [typically painted downwards] as the dye should mainly cover the mid to end sections of hair." This is what creates the shimmering effect.

Blackburne used two different shades on my dark brunette hair: one with bleach to lift the colour of certain strands more intensely and one softer tint, a shade lighter than my natural hair. Both of these were used on very small sections of hair, resulting in a flawless blend of brunettes. Blackburne uses the 'foilyage' hair colouring technique, which is similar to balayage but uses foils and is more suited to darker hair. This is because it ensures the colour shows up more clearly yet remains natural-looking. 

According to Blackburne, candlelit brunette would suit most mid-length to long hairstyles and it's easy to adjust the colour depending on the tone of the natural hair. She mentions that for the glimmering look, hair should be shoulder-length or below, as it will need to flow and move for the candlelit, glinting effect. "At the salon, ask your colourist for half a head of babylights in tones just a few shades lighter than your natural hair colour," advised Blackburne.

This look is particularly suited to those who are afraid to dip a toe into the world of colour, as it's subtle. It works on all textures, too, especially curly hair, which lends the multi-tonal colour more dimension when it moves. Take inspiration from this look posted to Instagram by an award-winning afro and textured hair specialist Michelle Thompson, and from this colour on model Lislen A. Mattos.

Depending on the length and thickness of your hair, as well as how light you want to go, the foilyage technique could take anywhere between 45 and 90 minutes to perfect. As it counts as highlights and balayage, your colourist will likely quote you a price over the phone or in person during a consultation.

Blackburne told me that a trend like candlelit brunette hair is actually very low maintenance. Music to my ears! By not going right up into the roots, you allow the natural hair colour to show through. This elevates the hair rather than masking it completely.

Of course, bleach can cause hair to become dry or brittle so Blackburne recommended protecting my hair with a solid hair-care routine. This includes a replenishing shampoo and conditioner. I've been reaching for Oribe Gold Lust, which smells delightful and rejuvenates hair by balancing the strands and the scalp.

For even further nourishment, I'll do a weekly hair mask. Ouai Treatment Masque is packed with moisturising oils plus shea butter and hydrolysed keratin to restore hydration and add shine.

As a top colourist, Blackburne's recommendation is the brand Virtue. She swears by the Healing Oil, a blend of oils and vitamins that works to smooth lengths and improve hair's body and vitality. Blackburne recommended that I use a blonde shampoo to maintain the radiance of the colour. Her recommendation is John Frieda Sheer Blonde Go Blonder Lightening Shampoo used on occasion to lift and lighten. 

I've now lived in my new hair for four days and I can honestly say that I am obsessed. I'm chastising myself for not taking this step sooner. The subtle tones catch the light at every angle and whether I wear my hair straight or in waves, I can see the incandescence. This may be the start of a colour addiction.