The 5 Skincare Actives Worth Investing In, According To An Expert

Scanning the ingredient list of your favourite skincare products can be an intimidating process — deciphering chemical names and percentages isn't exactly easy. But amidst all tiny text, there is one key signifier as to whether a product will help your skin: which skincare actives it contains.

'Actives' are the hardworking superheroes of our favourite products. They're the agents that are activated to target various skin issues after application (which we'll go into in a lot more detail below). Knowing which ones to look out for is integral in making informed product decisions that will serve your skin's needs.

To take out some of the guesswork, we spoke to beauty expert Joao Paulino, a Senior Product Development Associate at Swisse, to get some insight into what exactly skincare actives do and which ones are worth investing in.

According to Paulino, skincare actives are molecules that have been scientifically studied and reported to temporarily affect or change the skin’s surface in some way. They will often have clinical backing that proves their ability to work on specific skin concerns based on the formulation and ingredients used.

Skincare products are made up of both active and base ingredients —  base ingredients can assist the work active ingredients do and support the stabilisation of the formula so you can get the most out of the active ingredients.  

"Essentially, actives are what makes skincare work and are the ingredients in the product that support the claims on the label, specifically the skin concerns that the product targets. This can include improving the appearance of certain skin concerns such as "premature skin ageing, fine lines, uneven skin tone, blemishes and dryness," says Paulino. "Many of these clinically trialled active ingredients have been studied to change the skin in some way, that with repeated use allows for one’s desired skin outcomes."

You'll be able to find actives across different categories of products, including serums, cleansers, moisturisers and masks.  According to Paulino, these types of ingredients interact with the skin’s surface (i.e. cells, extracellular matrix, various components of the epidermis) to in some way temporarily alter or change the skin’s appearance, through various mechanisms, depending on the active.

Antioxidants such as Vitamin C will scavenge free radicals and protect the skin from further oxidative damage, certain oils like Hemp will fill in the gaps between cells at the skin’s surface to improve texture, Glycerin will attract water to keep the skin hydrated, and Retinol will trigger skin cell turnover, for a complexion that is regenerated and renewed. The list goes on.

These are some of the most sought after skincare actives which also have good scientific backing, to look out for when putting together a skincare routine:

Vitamin C: A potent antioxidant that fights free radical damage and works against premature ageing. Products containing Vitamin C at 10%, are scientifically proven to correct dull skin, dark spots, uneven skin tone and pigmentation — trying out Swisse' Beauty 10% Vitamin C Brightening Booster serum as a solid place to start.

Hyaluronic Acid: A hydrating powerhouse that plumps the skin — a product like Swisse Beauty Hyaluronic 2% Vitamin B5 Glow Booster Serum is a great way to try it out.

Niacinamide: Vitamin B3 that benefits the skin through its anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory action while protecting the skin cells from environmental impacts.

Bakuchiol: A plant-based alternative to retinol that has been scientifically proven to deliver similar benefits to Vitamin A, without the harsh effects.

Ceramides: Ceramides are a family of lipid-based actives/molecules which are naturally present in our skin’s surface. Applying topical ceramides to the skin will help maintain a healthy skin barrier function and hydration.

According to Paulino, investing in the right skincare actives is a great way to help maintain your skin health. However, consumers should be aware cosmetics are not able to fundamentally change or alter the skin’s physiology or fix skin diseases and conditions such as acne, rosacea, eczema or psoriasis. He also suggested reaching out to a trusted dermatologist or a qualified skin health professional for an assessment and guidance if specific skin concerns are not improved with product use.

"For example, Vitamin C is a popular active ingredient to brighten the skin and reduce free radical damage which can exacerbate skin ageing and has been shown to have beneficial effects on dull or uneven skin tone," he says.

"A good habit is to familiarise yourself with certain active ingredients. Typically speaking, the most prominent ingredients are displayed at the top of the list."