Nawal Sari On The Butterfly Effect Of Modest Brands Like Asiyam Showing At Fashion Week

Last year, a long-time industry friend, Asia Hassan — the designer behind the fashion label Asiyam — asked me to walk in her debut show at 2024 Australian Fashion Week.

I was nervous about not being a professional runway model, but also ecstatic to be part of such an iconic and meaningful show. Having a modest runway show designed by a Muslim woman on the official schedule, alongside some of Australia's biggest brands, is truly incredible, and a telling sign of how far the Australian creative industry has progressed.

This year, I had the privilege of going backstage at Asiyam to witness all of the beautiful chaos firsthand, before Asia held her second-ever AFW show. Since I have known Asia, she has maintained a humble attitude towards her creative work, always underestimating how excited the modest fashion community gets for her new work.

Designers like Asia are not only meeting the needs of Australian Muslim women, but also attracting a diverse clientele who appreciate the elegance and versatility of modest attire. Besides the incredible pieces, her shows always bring a community of like-minded women together. If you want to see the most extravagant looks and a plethora of modest fashion inspiration, it's all happening outside an Asiyam show.

On the last day of AFW 2024, the scene at Carriageworks looked like every other day although this time, there was a slew of modest fashion creatives in attendance, which not only allowed me to feel a sense of comfort, but brought with it incredible style moments.

They were dressed in extravagant maxi gowns, keffiyehs intertwined in suits and hats, and perfectly styled hijabs that looked so good, I'd pin them to my hijabi inspo Pinterest board if I could.

I attended wearing my favourite Alemais piece, the Ziggy gown. It's a piece I fell in love with from last year's Alemais runway show and knew it was the perfect modest dress to wear on the last day of fashion week, especially on a beautiful sunny Sydney day. 

At Asiyam's shows, it's evident there is a conscious effort to cast more diverse models than other shows held at AFW, with more cultural and religious representation too. This commitment to diversity is crucial in an industry that has historically overlooked non-Western beauty standards.

This year, her work paid homage to the current injustices happening in Palestine. The last look was a bridal piece styled with a keffiyeh, and the show music was used to address the world's current political climate at large. For me personally, fashion and my political and humanitarian values have always gone hand in hand, and there's nothing I appreciate more than when designers and other creatives use moments when the world is watching to make noise.

Asia's commitment to diversity didn't stop with the runway, either. From the women assisting Asia herself backstage, to the stylists and the volunteers, the entire production was a lesson in how to truly platform diversity.

The best part of the show was, of course, seeing the beautiful designs in motion. The collection, titled Butterfly, featured the iconic pleated pieces Asia is known for, but also some new styles I adored.

"The initial spark for this collection was the excitement of creating a Ramadan collection," explained Asia backstage. "The universal symbolism of butterflies representing transformation and renewal, this blend of personal joy and natured change shaped the entire collection".

Unlike her previous collections, this one featured a bridal Nikkah (Muslim wedding) gown and veil, which compliments the symbolism of her collection perfectly. Beyond that, the range featured warm earthy tones that can be styled seamlessly together, and incorporated floral and butterfly prints that somehow feel subtle and elevated.

The collection felt inspired by cultures that have pioneered modest fashion, such as Southeast Asia, the Middle East, and North Africa. Asia notes that pieces she's loved and admired over time formed the basis of the collection.

"The Mukhawar dress, traditionally worn by women in the gulf region. It's usually worn as an under-dress, but I styled it in the traditional way of wearing a Somali cultural attire called “Guntiino”, typically worn at weddings or bridal showers."

Asia's love of weaving Islamic tradition through her designs, due to it working ‘universally for all Muslim women’, is evident, and a hallmark of her brand.

Overall, I loved the Asiyam 2024 show. It was a beautiful way to champion and celebrate a variety of cultures. And while the brand is a modest fashion label, this runway show was proof that anyone can wear modest pieces and look incredibly stylish.

It's not often I attend a fashion show and feel like I can actually wear every piece, or that I see myself represented on the runway, but the Asiyam show did just that. Events like this are significant in reshaping the industry to be more inclusive and truly diverse.

I for one can't wait for the next Asiyam show, and hopefully for more modest fashion designers to join future AFW schedules.