“Timeless, Well-Fitted, Well-Made”: Melbourne Label Ka-He Prioritises Functionality Above All Else

Ka-He's designs require a double take; at first glance, the Melbourne-born brand seems like a well-articulated take on the alternative streetwear that's synonymous with the Victorian city. But with further investigation, one will discover that the pieces in question are rarely as straightforward as they appear.

The Take It Off denim jacket can be worn as is or as two separate pieces — a collared bolero and a lace-up corset. The Delivery denim wrap skirt is adjustable and can be comfortably worn by a size six and also a size 18 or 20. The I Want This Life and Another Dress/Skirt looks like a bandeau dress, but drop the top of it below the waist and stretch it over the hips, and it'll become a midi skirt with adjustable ties that alter the garment's volume depending on your aesthetic preferences.

According to Ka-He's founder and director Kacy Heywood, the overwhelming adaptability of each design is intentional. "I love functional design that is made to empower the wearer," Heywood tells Refinery29 Australia. "My inspiration comes from everyday people and my working-class background."

"I love to concentrate on making pieces that will last; timeless, well fitted, well made and with good fabrics," she says. "My hope is that the wearer will have it in their wardrobe for a lifetime, or that it holds a good resell value."

"Today we are educated on what sustainability actually means and we all know how fashion labels love to greenwash," she continues. "The reality is, if you are making new garments, you are not sustainable."

However, it was this disdain for the consumerist aspects of the fashion industry ("people jump on trends, buy mass-produced products and have no conscious thought behind what they are purchasing") that put her off starting her own label.

"[For] as long as I can remember, I have always been drawn to fashion. I would make gowns for my little sister out of my mum's old bed sheets, then make her parade down the hallway," says Heywood. "Starting my own label was another story — I am a late bloomer!"

At the age of 25 Heywood found herself in the midst of an existential crisis that left her depressed but the one thing that made her feel like a functional human again was the art of garment construction. "I leaned into this and, over eight years, turned Ka-He into the label it is today," she tells us.

Although it's clear her designs are in a league of their own, she admits she struggles with comparison. "It is hard to not compare yourself to others," she explains. "I have witnessed labels start and gain immediate success, and I am happy for them, but I also start to question why I do it. But my answer is always the same: I do it because I want to."

Heywood is also the brains behind Error404store, an online platform and store in North Fitzroy that showcases artists, events, creative voices, and sustainable, locally sourced and ethically produced pieces from a variety of independent stockists. She admits the idea was a happy accident, and "one which I couldn’t quite fathom".

"I was meant to be flying from Berlin to LA to compete on the TV show Making The Cut, [but] unfortunately, Covid hit and the U.S. closed its borders," Heywood explains. "I then made my way back to Australia and started Error404store, which is another highlight of my career." 

The inherently collaborative effort of the community-based project has inspired Heywood, but she says she still likes to maintain a certain level of independence when it comes to her solo project Ka-He. "I look to other designers for drive and motivation, but not inspiration for my designs," she explains, adding that she keeps her "blinders up" to avoid outside influence implicating her design process. "I need to feel more in tune with the immediate world around me to then create, what I feel, is more genuine work," she continues.

As for the future of Ka-He? Heywood admits her pragmatic nature makes it difficult to dream about any potential growth the brand might have, but she has humble hopes to see it flourish, "much the same as it is now".