Ngali’s Standalone AAFW Show Is A Long-Awaited Celebration Of First Nations Fashion & Culture

First Nations representation at Australian Fashion Week has been a slow burn. It was only in 2021 that the event first opened with a traditional Welcome to Country and smoking ceremony by the Gadigal people. In the same year, we saw First Nations Fashion and Design (FNFD) present the first all-Indigenous runway — that is, one led by and featuring all Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people and brands.

In 2023, Denni Francisco's label, Ngali, is the first Indigenous designer to have a standalone show at Australian Afterpay Fashion Week (AAFW). It's a moment that calls for celebration, highlighting the industry's gradual progress, and reminding us that change must continue to champion more Indigenous representation.

The Wiradjuri woman says younger generations' advocacy on social media, particularly in recent years, has helped the push for First Nations visibility on the runway.

"I think social media certainly helps," Francisco tells Refinery29 Australia. "There are a lot of young people out there sharing stories, showing up, and finding more pathways for which First Nations creativity can take."

Francisco founded Ngali in 2018, after over two decades working in the fashion industry — both as a fashion director at an international buying office in LA — and as the founder of children’s wear label, Billiecart Clothing. She didn't see the necessity for another label in the saturated fashion biz, but knew the impact could be great when there's a clear purpose.

In launching Ngali, her aim was to showcase First Nations Australian art on high quality clothing, while celebrating the talent and culture of Indigenous communities at the same time.

"When I started Ngali, I didn't think that the world needed another fashion brand, to be honest. There were so many people doing amazing things," she explains.

"But I also truly think that fashion itself is not that important. It's what it can do. It's actually an incredibly influential platform for being able to support change and to take on social issues."

Uplifting the diverse talents of various First Nations creatives forms the basis for Ngali's approach, from ideation through to the final product on the runway.

"Our ethos is 'together we create', so it really sits at the heart of everything we do," says Francisco. "We look at, how do we involve other First Nations, always? That actually just adds so much excitement and so much value to anything that we do, and it's a collective celebration."

With Ngali presenting 30 looks at its 2023 AAFW show, Francisco is particularly excited about an addition to the runway itself — boots hand painted by five First Nations artists.

"The prints are our heroes," says Francisco, explaining that no matter how the garments are cut, designed or accessorised, it's the work of the artists who've created the prints that need to shine most.

The designer says the brand always considers, "What do we do to respect the prints, and where they came from? And how do we enhance them with any of the accents?"

Overall, Ngali is known for comfortable silhouettes, so we can expect to see more shirts, pants and breezy dresses on the runway. Bold accessories also make the cut, with jewellery, millinery and hats making appearances, too.

Francisco says it's not just Indigenous communities who want to see more representation in the fashion industry. "I think that there's a genuine interest from the public as well," she says.

As many of us do, Francisco is hopeful that a standalone First Nations designer's show is just the norm in coming years. There's no reason why it cannot be.

"Creativity comes from diversity," she says. "The more diverse that we can be in fashion, the more creativity comes to the fore."