The “Cowlick Fringe” Is Taking Over Salons — & It’s Pretty Genius

If you were to text your best friend and ask if they have a cowlick, there is a high likelihood that they would reply, “Oh, let me tell you about it.”

For anyone unfamiliar, a cowlick is a small section of hair that grows differently to your other hairs, often taking on a swirl-like pattern. “It can stick straight up or just lay in a completely different angle,” explains Nick Latham, one half of the London-based salon team The Hair Bros. Even though most of us have learned how to hide our cowlicks with a straightener or styling gel, they are extremely common.

As such, Latham sees a lot of cowlicks in his line of work. His salon requests that clients come in with their natural hair (air-dried, not heat-styled), making it easier to identify those delightfully swirled or against-the-grain hairs: “Often, we can identify them visually or a client will mention their cowlick,” Latham explains. Most will assume that their hairline cowlick prohibits certain hairstyles. For example, “There is a common myth that fringes and cowlicks cannot work,” says Latham.

This assumption hinges on a narrow view of what a fringe is and who it's for. “In the past, where fringes were perfect (straight and very blunt) it is true that a cowlick would cause chaos,” says Latham. “But these days, where everything is softer, hair moves more and a cowlick can work beautifully with your fringe.”

According to Latham, the aspects of a cowlick that we often rage against — like the texture or angling — can reinforce a fringe and create a nice lift to the hair. Latham references a recent client with a cowlick that “opened slightly” around her face. “We thought, Why not really lean into the nuances and bends? In came this fringe.”

Every cowlick is different, so a cowlick fringe is personal. “A fringe with a cowlick is actually more individual than any other,” explains Latham. What differentiates cowlick fringes from other styles — baby bangs, curtain fringes, a ’70s fringe — is its movement and shape. “They are different in the sense that they will not lie flat,” adds Latham. “Instead, they have more volume and more of a bend, which can really open up an individual’s eyes and complement features like cheekbones.”

To compare the cowlick fringe to other fringe styles, Latham says, “It is shorter, more the vibe of an actual fringe as opposed to a longer, swoopier shape.” Whatever its length, a cowlick fringe will often have a natural openness, exposing the forehead. “A cowlick fringe can still part like a curtain fringe,” Latham adds. “With a cowlick fringe, we encourage embracing the nuances as opposed to wanting the hair to sit too perfectly.”

The length of a cowlick fringe can be tailored to you, but Latham's pro tip is simple: “Start a little longer and judge how your fringe is behaving before going shorter.” As for specifics of the cowlick fringe? “We like to keep the middle of the fringe slightly blunter than normal,” explains Latham. “This adds extra weight, which will help control the fringe, and help with the day-to-day styling. Often we will keep a little more length past the corners of the eyebrows, which adds an element of versatility, especially if you want to brush the fringe back into a more ’80s vibe blowdry.”

What if you have curly hair? Textured hair specialist Luke Castillo says the same rules apply: “Due to the nature of the way the curly hair grows out of the scalp, curly and coily hair clients can be prone to cowlicks,” Castillo explains. “More so in curly hair, this [...] creates a natural root lift to the hair which enhances the volume of hair.”

For the cut, he uses a razor to soften through the fringe so that the hair blends in with the cowlick. “Another way to work with the cowlick, especially on curly hair, is to create a heavier [fringe] or take the [fringe] on the shorter side and make it a point of view rather than working against the cowlick.”

Styling depends on your hair texture, so try not to be too precious. Latham recommends using a no-crease hair clip to flatten the middle of the fringe and then bevelling the edges into a ’60s shape using a round brush — essentially curling the hair under. “Bear in mind that the cowlick may rise throughout the day, so don’t be too scared to go a little flatter,” he explains. “Remember that fringes do not need to be parted in the middle, and that the beauty of a cowlick fringe lays in some strands bending in slightly different directions.”

Another great option for a fuller effect is to use a hairdryer and round brush (or a heated round brush, if you have one) and set the fringe forward and under “in three, fairly small sections,” Latham recommends. “After doing this you can brush the fringe back — an up-and-over type of movement.” Look to Claudia Schiffer for inspiraton.

Before your appointment, Latham recommends looking up a few references (The Hair Bros' Instagram account is full of them). “Do your research, and explain yourself and your hair thoroughly,” he advises. “But also don’t obsess too much when styling. Remember your fringe shouldn’t look the same every day.” Cowlicks are cute, let them do their thing.