10 Cosy Perfume Trends For Autumn, Predicted By Fragrance Experts

In a game of word association, “autumn” is likely to prompt responses like “bonfires” or “pumpkin spice lattes”. Clichéd? Perhaps. But you can’t knock us for trying to romanticise the impending cold weather and darker days.

What bonfires and pumpkin spice lattes have in common, though, are the comforting olfactory memories attached to them. Think smoky embers from a glowing fire or the festive spice of cinnamon and nutmeg. It’s these brooding yet cosy notes that perfumers have captured and expertly distilled into this autumn's fragrance launches, so if you’re keen to clear some space on your shelf for something a little warmer and richer, read on. 

Ahead, we asked a handful of top fragrance experts from Paris to London to predict the autumn perfume trends that are going to be huge in the upcoming months. Happily, there’s something for all tastes and budgets. 

“Clean girl” makeup is unattainable, though anyone can get on board the perfume trend of the same name. It’s characterised by soapy scents like fresh laundry and bubble baths but according to Michelle Feeney, founder of Floral Street, we’re moving away from the “clean” era. “After the so-called ‘brat summer’ [we] aren’t afraid to be a bit more loud and out there with [our] scents,” Feeney tells R29. “Instead of taking inspiration from clean sheets and warm baths, people are opting for fragrances that celebrate the wilder side of life.” Think rich coffee, salty tobacco and boozy liqueurs. Her favourite way to lean into this is with Floral Street's Black Lotus, £74: a powerful and spicy, woody fragrance. “You have red peppercorn and saffron combined with the honeyed scent of centifolia rose and black cherry. It has a bit of a rebellious feel to it.” 

Also try Guerlain Patchouli Paris Eau de Parfum, £295, with heady patchouli, woody iris and comforting vanilla, or Creed Delphinus, £235, with black pepper, whiskey and woody amber. If you’d rather spend less, try & Other Stories Sardonyx Fire Eau de Toilette, £28, with patchouli, black amber and vanilla beans.

Viola Levy, fragrance writer, brand strategist and founder of Smart Beauty Creative, says “punk” perfumes don’t try to be popular, glamorous or anything the traditional perfume market would produce. “It’s a backlash to Chanel No. 5 topping the charts year after year, together with the ‘niche’ market becoming commercialised (hence the ubiquity of Santal 33 and Baccarat Rouge 540),” says Levy. Instead, punk perfumes are created to be appreciated by a select few. “Deep and complex, they encourage us to focus on more ambivalent emotions rather than trying to get us to feel joy or happiness or any of the other sentiments fragrance companies tried to get us to feel in the past. (Think Radiohead versus Pharrell Williams!) This reflective, sombre mood is perfect for autumn.”

Levy loves NOYZ Sh**ty Day, £85. “This is a heady amber with stress-relieving clary sage and a sharp bite of salted fig, described as ‘the vent sesh you needed’. Luxury perfumes are also getting punk-inspired; D.S. & Durga Black Magenta, £155, boasts sharp, spiky notes of pineapple and black pepper, evoking the likes of Blondie and the Ramones and the rest of the 1970s NYC punk scene.” Also try Lush New Romantics, £30, with spicy pimento berry oil and sharp orange. 

Forget rose, jasmine and orange blossom. Dimitri Weber, creator of fragrance brand Goldfield & Banks, is convinced that kunzea (a spiky flower native to Australia and New Zealand) will reign supreme in perfume thanks to its fresh, herbaceous aroma with a hint of autumnal spice. In other words, it’s the floral for people who hate florals.

“The scent is grounding yet uplifting, which makes it perfect for transitioning from summer to autumn,” says Weber. Often compared to eucalyptus, kunzea is sometimes used as a base or middle note (the ones that really stick around as a fragrance wears off throughout the day). Try Goldfield & Banks Mystic Bliss Eau de Parfum, £138, with kunzea, spicy cardamom and green clary sage. If you’re keen to spend less, R29 rates Zara Elegantly Tokyo, £25.99, with cardamom and sandalwood, a blend that is similar to kunzea.

Zingy and refreshing, it’s little wonder we gravitate to citrus in summer perfume but Feeney says she is seeing a lot more interest in the note ahead of autumn. “I think this is due to the rise in ‘wellness’ fragrances — essentially choosing perfume based on what's going to support our mood and make us feel good,” she says. “It makes sense for people to reach for an uplifting citrus scent on a grey day.” Feeney gravitates towards Floral Street's Sunflower Pop, £74, with mandarin, vegan honey accord and her favourite citrus note of all, bergamot. 

You might also like Marks & Spencer Discover Fresh Mandarin Eau de Toilette, £10, with sweet orange flower and jasmine plus mandarin, or if you have a higher budget, Aesop Virēre Eau de Parfum, £115, with citrus fruits, green tea and milky fig. 

Think of your ultimate comfort food; any bets it’s something sweet. With the nights drawing in, Feeney predicts that our perfumes will reflect our soothing food choices — but they’ll be wearable rather than overly saccharine. You might’ve heard of ‘gourmand’ fragrances: perfumes with treacly, edible notes. “While this has been a huge trend, we’re moving away from super sweet, dessert trolley scents and evolving into fragrances that remind us of our favourite comfort foods like tea, coffee, marmalade on toast and fresh, nutty pastries,” says Feeney. “Autumn is a time when many of us want to hunker down with something familiar and comforting, with a nostalgic element, too.” She recommends Floral Street's Ylang Ylang Espresso, £74, with notes of espresso beans, tiramisu and Sichuan pepper. “It's reminiscent of your morning cappuccino,” says Feeney. 

Also try Gucci Flora Gorgeous Orchid, £135, with lashings of vanilla balanced with ozonic accord, which evokes the freshness of cold air and sea breezes. Oakcha’s Sweet Addict, £35, is an impressive “dupe” for one of the most moreish gourmand perfumes: Kilian Love, Don’t Be Shy, £225. 

Far from boring, comforting vanilla has had something of a resurgence in fragrance. Think Kayali Vanilla 28, £73, and Yves Saint Laurent Libre Eau de Parfum, £69. Until recently, perfumers have gravitated towards Madagascan vanilla, which is treacly and rich. If that’s too sweet for you, try Tahitian vanilla instead, suggests Weber. “This is creamier and fruitier than its Madagascan counterpart, offering a tropical twist with depth,” he says. “It carries subtle floral notes, which blend beautifully with other warm, comforting ingredients,” like spices and musk.

Goldfield & Banks Silky Woods Elixir Eau de Parfum, £215, combines sweet and nuzzly vanilla with spicy saffron and earthy oud, while cult-classic Gucci Bamboo For Her Eau de Parfum, £110, marries Tahitian vanilla with creamy sandalwood and warm amber. Also try Pacifica Island Vanilla Spray Perfume, £24, if you want to spend less.  

Perfumer Jérôme Epinette is equally enamoured of vanilla, in particular a trend he’s calling “vanilla pairing”. “I’ve been exploring the pairing of vanilla with bold and effervescent spices, dark fruits, warm ambery notes and other gourmand elements like pistachio,” he says. NOYZ Unmute, £85, is the perfect expression of this, says Epinette. “It’s a great autumn fragrance [that offers] a new depth and sophistication.” 

Feeney thinks we might have witnessed the end of the signature scent: choosing just one perfume and making it our default. Instead, she has noticed perfume enthusiasts putting together a mini “wardrobe” of scents to match their mood or their outfit, or to use as a form of self-expression. Stina Seger, cofounder and creative director of Bibbi Parfum, seems to agree; she calls this “the capsule collection”.

“I don’t adhere to having a signature scent and love discovering something new to add to my collection,” Seger says. “It’s one of the reasons I launched Bibbi with nine debut parfums. The focus on essential scents that you can mix, match and layer allows endless creativity while being environmentally friendly by avoiding overconsumption.” Bestsellers include Ghost of Tom Eau de Parfum, £225 (which has a mysterious, smoky air to it thanks to a unique combination of Ceylon black tea, warm amber, zingy bergamot and Indian papyrus), and Boy of June Eau de Parfum, £110, with black pepper, Italian lemon and velvety incense. Feeney also suggests the Floral Street Fragrance Discovery Set, £30, if you’re keen to experiment. 

Seger says she is exploring bespoke perfume outside of Bibbi’s nine-strong capsule collection, which will allow fragrance enthusiasts to create something truly theirs. Though perfume personalisation is nothing new, it can be expensive. If you need a nudge in the right direction, Lush just opened the doors to its Perfume Library, a store on Beak Street in London's Soho. There, perfume experts will help you pinpoint a fragrance that suits you down to a T. If you have more to spend, Experimental Perfume Club allows you to play mixologist in the comfort of your own home. 

And if you already have a dressing table studded with scented lotions, potions and perfumes, consider what Seger calls “fragrance fusion”. “I wear at least two or three fragrances at any one time — not always layered on top of each other, but applied to different parts of my body,” she says. “I love receiving compliments when I’ve layered something unexpected.” Besides combining perfumes, Seger suggests layering scented lotions and hair mists to create a “multidimensional fragrance experience”.

“The trend of using recycled raw materials in perfumery is gaining momentum,” says David Benedek, founder of BDK Parfums — and it offers both environmental benefits and new creative opportunities. In the brand’s Vanille Leather Eau de Parfum, £185, the oak wood is sourced from recycled cognac barrels. Also try BDK Velvet Tonka Eau de Parfum, £175, with salty tobacco, woody almond and vanilla-like tonka. It’s autumn in a bottle. 

Weber likes to spotlight notes with spiritual significance in his creations, like creamy sandalwood. “Known for its calming and meditative properties, sandalwood is a staple in perfumes that aim to offer more than just a pleasing scent,” he says. “It’s often used in fragrances meant to promote relaxation and spiritual connection.” Try Goldfield & Banks White Sandalwood Eau De Parfum, £138, with white sandalwood, fragrant thyme and all-encompassing amber. 

“Patchouli is another note that adds depth and a sense of grounding,” says Weber. “It's associated with healing and spiritual wellbeing, making it a popular choice for those seeking a perfume with a purpose beyond fragrance.” R29 loves Dior Gris Dior Esprit De Parfum, £380, with woody cedar and a potent dose of patchouli that makes it totally unique. (It is created by Francis Kurkdjian, the nose behind Baccarat Rouge 540, after all.) If you’re on a budget, try Fragonard Naturelles Line Patchouli Eau de Toilette, £35, which is earthy, woody and fresh in equal measure.