I Got Baby Brows, A Subtle Alternative To Lamination — & I’m A Convert

The beauty industry has a clever knack for taking popular treatments and cuteifying them for the masses by stitching on one small word: baby. In the past few years we’ve seen baby Botox (using fewer units of Botox to smooth lines without the “frozen” effect), baby balayage (a hair-colouring technique that bleaches smaller sections of hair for a more natural, blended look) and baby lip filler (injecting a minimal dose of hyaluronic acid to plump lips undetectably). 

One thing they all have in common? They’re all pretty low-key. Now another major beauty movement has had the subtle treatment. Enter: brow lamination. Or rather, baby brow lamination. 

Without subjecting you to a chemistry lesson, it pays to understand traditional — or OG — brow lamination first. For the uninitiated, the treatment enlists a straightening solution (most commonly including the ingredient ammonium thioglycolate) to break down the bonds within the hair. This permanently elongates brow hairs so that they appear groomed and brushed up with minimal effort. 

Baby brow lamination has a few key differences: The formula is lightly feathered through just the start of the brow rather than being combed right through to the end. It’s also left on for less time — typically four to six minutes instead of the usual 10 or more — so the hairs don’t appear slicked-back or stuck to the skin. The result is said to be a perfectly fluffy brow that looks naturally groomed. 

If you're a regular here, you might already know my thoughts on original brow lamination treatments. Something about the glossy hairs all standing up on end just doesn’t do it for me. Each to their own, of course, but I have to admit that it’s something I’d written off entirely. When I spotted the baby brow trend, though, I knew I had to try it, mainly because my brows have a mind entirely of their own. 

No, really. Not even industrial-strength brow gel (I’m talking Soap Brows, Refy Brow Sculpt and NYX Brow Glue) can keep them in place. That’s because, like the hair on my head, my brow hairs seem to have a slight wave in them. Baby brows sounded like the perfect solution so I paid a visit to lash and brow technician Emmy Clayton of Emmy Creates.

While baby brow lamination works on all hair textures, Clayton immediately told me that only some are candidates for the treatment. In fact, she often turns away prospective clients. “If you have a full brow, then baby brow lamination looks better,” said Clayton. “On me, someone with thin brows, it just doesn’t look right.” Clayton suggests that baby brow lamination is like scaffolding for brow hairs, providing a certain structure without the flattened effect. “When it comes to baby brows, you don’t want them to sit too upright,” said Clayton. “Instead, we want them to sit naturally.” But whether your brow hairs are ultra-fine or coarse like mine, the aim of the game is to take the chore out of grooming them.  

Clayton used a small brush to paint on the solution, which contained cysteamine hydrochloride (HCL), an active ingredient that breaks down the hair’s bonds but minimises the potential for overprocessing so that you can forget about brittle brow hairs post-treatment. “Traditionally, brow lamination solutions were made from glycolic acid, which is very strong and has an eggy smell,” explained Clayton. “This [version] is a softer formula and breaks down the disulfide bonds in the hair very gently.” To comb it through, Clayton actually used a dental brush. “A brush like this is ultra-soft and kinder on the hair than using something tough or wiry, so it doesn’t stretch the hair,” she said. This is key to avoiding overly laminated hair strands that appear pasted to the skin.

How long the solution is left on for depends on a single strand test, just to see how your brow hairs react. Clayton told me that eight to 10 minutes is ample when it comes to brow lamination but in the case of baby brows, the solution works its magic in half the time. “The goal is just to soften the hairs,” Clayton said, which is why she decided not to put a layer of clingfilm over my brows, as it only encourages the flattening process. 

After four and a half minutes, the processing treatment was removed and Clayton went in with a layer of setting lotion (Elleeplex ReGen), which she explained is a mix of bond builders to save the integrity of each hair strand. “Think of this like Olaplex for your brow hairs,” Clayton told me. “Setting lotion is really important because it virtually locks the brow hairs in shape, but before I apply this, I usually run a little brow glue through the brows to make sure that the hairs are all in the right direction.”

Don’t expect baby brow lamination to totally transform your face; that’s not the point. The result is understated but it has certainly taken the chore out of doing my brows every morning. All I do now is brush my brows up with a spoolie, fill in any sparse patches with my trusty Glossier Boy Brow Arch, £24, and go. A quick slick of brow gel is like insurance to prolong the brushed-up effect — but I just need one swipe, which is new for me. All in all, I love that it makes the start of my brows appear fluffy and full. Most days, after applying moisturiser, I just use my fingers to slick up the hairs; as they’re slightly straighter than before, they don’t need as much help to stay put. 

Baby brow lamination lasts until the hairs fall out to make room for new growth — usually four weeks. While the actual treatment is speedy, maintaining the shape and health of your brows depends on how you look after them at home. “Keep them hydrated and conditioned,” advised Clayton, who recommended Mavala Double-Cils, £16.50. “This is so underrated,” Clayton told me, “because the main active ingredient is snail mucin,” which deeply moisturises and protects hairs and the surrounding skin. If you have more to spend, Clayton also swears by Agent Nateur Lash & Brow Serum, £105. “This is phenomenal because it contains an ingredient called Redensyl, which targets stem cells [to encourage] hair growth,” she said. 

Baby brow lamination provides delicate results but like most beauty treatments I’ve had, I wanted the outcome to be imperceptible — and I believe it is. Finally, it’s important to visit a professional rather than attempting to try brow lamination at home using DIY kits. Perming solutions aren’t safe in unqualified hands, and accidentally getting the formula inside your eyes can prove dangerous, as is leaving it on the skin for too long. And anyway, if TikTok is anything to go by, the overly laminated look is something that we’re keen to leave behind as we head into 2025...