Burberry is always the most anticipated show of the season but this time around saw a change in tempo for creative director Riccardo Tisci. Arguably his strongest collection for the brand thus far, it feels as though the designer has settled into his new home, allowing his creative vision to be fully realised.
Firstly, the outerwear. Burberry is known and loved for its classic trench coat, which was treated to a refresh in several ways this season: with ‘70s shearling trim (very Penny Lane); with contrasting black and white lapels; and in supersize check with Peter Pan collars that felt less heritage and more experimental. It was even given the Frankenstein hybrid treatment when fused with a puffer jacket.
Away from the trench style, boxy beige cropped jackets felt the most contemporary, while the oil-slick high-shine vinyl will be a sellout and the quilted form-fitting jackets will appeal to the brand’s more conservative customer. Elsewhere, rugby stripes were given a fresh new spin in egg yolk yellow and candyfloss pink across shirts and dresses, while cricket jumpers were layered over sequinned floor-skimming gowns. We also have a soft spot for a standout olive green trouser suit which was paired with a white and rust shirt.
Sibling pianists Katia and Marielle Labèque provided the music, their synchronised crescendo matching the collection’s pulsing energy. An all-star cast of models walked the show, too, from Bella and Gigi Hadid to Joan Smalls, Kendall Jenner and Irina Shayk. Burberry also debuted the latest instalment of its B Series at the show. The Robin, a small black structured bag in Italian-tanned leather, complete with Tisci’s now-cult gold Thomas Burberry Monogram clasp, enjoyed its first outing on the AW20 catwalk tonight, though hints of the cross-body bag were dropped on the house’s social media platforms today.