Why Do People “Gatekeep” Their Nail Polish Shade? An Investigation

They say that imitation is the highest form of flattery, and while I don’t mind a little copying here and there (after all, I share a lot of my life online), it’s only complimentary up to a point. I once had a friend who would copy everything I did. If I bought a doughnut, she’d buy a doughnut. When I bought my now-favourite dog lead from a local independent store, she did, too. After I found a treasured necklace at a vintage market, she scoured the web for the very same one. I felt bad because she’s a bloody lovely human being, yet I couldn’t help but think: Get your own personality!

Speaking of personalities, I’m often told that when people think of me, they think of dogs (I have a saluki) and fun nails — a bang-on description that I’m rather chuffed with. In fact, I’m always honoured when people strike up a conversation about my nails. When asked how I look after them, which shades I like or who my go-to nail artists are (SophiaDoesNailss and GazeByBecky on Instagram, FYI), I never hesitate to share. 

One day, though, as I was mindlessly scrolling on my phone, I spotted a surprising Instagram story from one of my favourite nail artists. It showed a picture of her perfectly buffed nails, filed to perfection and deliciously coated in a layer of candy-floss pink. The caption read: “I will forever gatekeep this shade.”

Hmm, I thought. Weird. 

I understand the allure of keeping things to yourself — especially after the vintage necklace incident — but I had no idea that people were “gatekeeping” the details of their manicure, and I certainly never imagined that nail artists themselves would be doing it. According to Google search, TikTok videos related to the phrase “I gatekeep my nailtech” boast 15.9 million posts, with videos from manicurists and clients alike. Conversely, “Nail tech don’t gatekeep” serves up 181.2 million. In a video with 8,000 views, nail tech and TikToker NaildByK begins by saying, “Gatekeeping is such a big thing in the nail industry”, before explaining that it’s why she shares her tips on TikTok: to combat it. 

Whichever side of the argument you’re on — whether pro gatekeeping or not — it's an interesting concept. But what does it actually mean? In the truest sense of the word, “gatekeeping” means to “control who gets particular resources, power, or opportunities, and who does not,” according to the Cambridge Dictionary. Think media executives and political leaders who get to play institutional gods. These days, people use the word less seriously. If you ask Urban Dictionary, it means to “make interests exclusive in order to protect them from becoming ‘mainstream’”. In a world where everything is shared online and it feels like few things are ever truly kept private, perhaps “gatekeepers” — in the most modern sense — simply want to keep a little something for themselves. Harmless, right?

On the contrary, for small business owners who rely on word of mouth or social media shares to gain new clients and bring in business, having clients who gatekeep their services could negatively affect them. For Eliza*, 32, a nail artist from Nottingham, gatekeeping is unforgivable. “I think it’s meant to be a compliment but, honestly, I get offended,” she tells me, adding that it makes her reconsider having the person as a client altogether.

Whether they’re hiding their favourite shades or refusing to share their hard-to-book nail technicians, there are multiple reasons why someone might hold back, especially when you take “nail privilege” into consideration — a notion that people with manicured nails are treated more favourably. Anya*, 27, says people always compliment her nails at work, which she thinks adds to her polished, professional look and makes people notice her. “Why would I want to share that?” she asks. “If it became normal for everyone to look the same and have the same nails, then I wouldn’t stand out in a positive way anymore.”

Among the people I interviewed, a desire to look different was a common reason for withholding the name of a nail polish colour. Hannah Taylor, an ambassador for The Gel Bottle, says that clients get “possessive” over nail shades. “They get frustrated when friends or family members copy their nail designs and then post them online without credit,” she tells me. “Clients want recognition for their personal style and creative choices — they like being seen as the trend-setter,” Taylor adds.

This thirst for individuality comes as a surprise to me because for years now, I’ve seen a similar aesthetic dominate the nail space. Every other nail post on my Instagram feed consists of short, squoval nails, preferably in a sheer pink, with nary a cuticle in sight. It’s very “clean girl” coded, and many of my editor friends stick to this recipe. Even nail art tends to look the same after a while — a colourful micro-French here, a chrome star there. I’ve only just begun to spy a mass shift towards more curated, experimental, individual-looking nails with 3D elements and fun textures, inspired by East Asian and Black communities. So why are we worried about looking unique when so many of us opt for a trending look that is entirely the opposite? 

It’s because nails are a form of self-expression, notes Nicole Marien, who is also an ambassador for The Gel Bottle. She tells me that clients might gatekeep to stand out and gain recognition, but also to avoid being carbon-copied. “I once had a [bridal] client who carefully curated her nail design, only for her mother-in-law to get the exact same design [before the wedding],” Marien shares. “It’s moments like these that highlight how personal and meaningful nail choices can be.” After hearing this story, I’m all for keeping your wedding set under wraps. Of course you want to feel extra special and unique on your big day!

Weddings aside, the need for individuality is something I can relate to. After all, when people say they think of nice nails whenever they think of me, I feel my chest swell with pride. It’s this idea that has led to so much customisation within the nail space, even when choosing a style that adheres to certain trends. Nail artist Lauren Hazel Broe says she mixes custom colours for her clients. Even though these shades might look like simple nudes to the untrained eye (and fit neatly into the clean girl aesthetic), Broe says her clients love to gatekeep their custom cocktails. “When I’ve spent ages trialling colours or combos with them and we finally achieve what they want, they just want it all for themselves,” she says. It goes both ways. “Once I’ve spent all that time trying different combinations, it feels so bespoke to me that I kinda don’t want to reveal [what I’ve created],” says Broe. It’s a way of holding onto her own hard work. “Some shades just become a part of you or your client, and it feels wrong to share them with anyone else,” she adds.

I wonder if this gatekeeping of custom shades is to create an air of exclusivity. Similarly to the “quiet luxury” trend, exclusive beauty treatments suggest the kind of wealth and status that usually comes hand-in-hand with celebrities or other VIPs. It’s not just clients who gatekeep their nail choices, though. Corrinna Bianca, a luxury nail artist with 35k followers on Instagram, says she has her “signature” shade that she never shares. “It’s just one shade,” she divulges, “I gatekeep it from all other nail artists.” Bianca says that she shares “everythingggg” online, and she wants to keep one little secret for herself. Even when paying clients ask for this shade, she won’t confess: “I’ll just use something very similar to achieve the same look.”

Bianca also withholds shades temporarily to drum up excitement. “I’ve shared everything online for years now,” she explains. “If I keep something to myself, it creates a hype. The more I post about it [without sharing the details], the more clients want it.”

Not everyone is a fan of keeping things under wraps, though. One artist tells me that “gatekeeper” clients make her chuckle: “If people want to be selfish, that’s on them. I secretly like their friends’ photos on Instagram to get their custom. I have my ways.” However, she does note that salons can feel like intimate, vulnerable and safe spaces, and she would never jeopardise this trust by using current clients’ names to draw in new business. If a client wants to gatekeep her, she’ll try to find and recruit their friends subtly online, but she’ll keep her client’s name out of it.

Of course, there’s another obvious reason why one might conceal the name of a nail technician: the cost. Keeping a nail tech to yourself means you don’t have to share their expertise, style or prime-time appointments with as many people, explains Marien. These are all factors that, when a manicurist becomes popular and successful, can encourage a price surge. As we muddle through a cost of living crisis, it’s unsurprising that people want to avoid this. For some, sharing the details of their manicure could negatively impact their own finances, stopping them indulging in a little, much-needed luxury.

Ultimately, there are both pros and cons to gatekeeping, with technicians and clients alike on both sides of the debate. Some think it’s selfish, for others it’s unavoidable to keep costs down, while many consider it a necessary evil to maintain an air of individuality, creativity and luxury. At the end of the day, there are no rules when it comes to keeping nail secrets. All I know is this: There is no greater compliment than when someone asks for the 411 on my manicure, and I’ll always share with gusto.

I’m currently wearing My Boo BIAB by The Gel Bottle, in case you were wondering...