Is Highlighter Dead?

There was a point not too long ago where it seemed I couldn’t get away from blindingly bright, dramatically strobed cheekbones and nose bridges on my feed. Becca Cosmetics’ Champagne Pop Shimmering Skin Perfector (IYKYK) had me in a chokehold between the years of 2014 to 2016, until one day…it didn’t. Slowly but surely, I asked myself if highlighter was, in fact, dead. (Well, if you have to ask…)

But the thing is, even if highlighter had fallen out of favour, glowy skin had not — that much was certain. “The strobing and highlighter craze perfectly aligned with the early years of beauty on social media, offering a bold, hyper-glowy complexion,” makeup artist and Sephora beauty director David Razzano tells Refinery29. “In truth, most people couldn’t translate these harsh strobed effects into daily life — it looked too intense.” He’s not wrong, but also I think that may have been the point.

“I think that highlighting has quietened down a bit on social media because skincare has taken a front seat,” says MAC Cosmetics senior artist Michelle Clark. “It’s more about skin artistry now and seeing your natural skin shine through.” So just as skincare has become so deeply ingrained in beauty routines and social media discourse, it seems the consensus is this: Why fake glowy skin when you can have the real thing? “People will always use highlighter,” Clark adds, “but now it’s less about on top of the makeup and more about creating well-hydrated, dewy skin that radiates through.”

“The key to modern highlighting is to ensure that the result resembles natural, glowy skin,” says Razzano. “You want your skin to take centre stage, not the makeup.” (Preach!) In lieu of see-it-from-space pops of dazzling shimmer, the 2025 interpretation of a highlighted complexion calls for naturally glowy skin that looks lit from within. “Using the correct formulas and techniques for your skin type will allow you to create a natural-looking finish,” Razzano says.

Clark adds, “My favourite way to highlight the skin now is by focusing on skin prep.” She also recommends massaging the face during this step to boost circulation and to revive your complexion before a drop of makeup hits your face. “When it comes to modern highlighting, I like to use serums, oils or cream products under and over complexion products to create a seamless highlight,” she says.

According to Razzano, the most important thing to keep in mind when highlighting is actually your skin type — and here’s why: “This is often overlooked by many, but it is the key to success: If someone has dry to 'normal' skin, I’ll use a deeply hydrating moisturiser like Tatcha’s Dewy Skin Cream, to prep because I want to achieve radiant skin through quality, long-lasting hydration, followed by Saie Glowy Super Gel, all over the face to give a beautiful glow and radiance.”

For those with combination or oily skin, Razzano suggests a “strategic” approach to highlighting. “This skin type will get a natural glow from oil production, so targeting specific areas is better here, since all over glow would likely end up with an excessively shiny T-zone,” he explains. “I would likely use a lightweight moisturiser like Glow Recipe Watermelon Pink Juice, to prep the skin with hydration that won’t add additional oil or shine to the face, then create radiance on targeted areas using a soft luminiser like Milk Makeup’s Dewy Cream Highlighter Stick, for a beautiful, natural look that melts into the skin.”

Clark also leans heavily into skin prep, adding a mist to both prep and set skin. “I never start makeup with dry skin — I use MAC Fix + Magic Radiance, to mist the skin with a nourishing dose of vitamin C and hyaluronic acid,” says Clark. “With [skin] still damp, I will go in with few pumps of MAC Hyper Real Serumizer. These steps work together to create a smooth, glowy canvas for foundation and concealer.”

With a dewy base, Clark then recommends “MAC’s glow duo” (the brand’s Studio Radiance Foundation and Studio Radiance Luminous Lift Concealer) to create highlighted skin using not highlighter, but strategically placed foundation and concealer. “I start with a single pump of foundation and create a veil of coverage all over the skin, then I go in on specific areas — like the under eyes, around the nose and chin to give a bit more coverage and luminosity.” Last step? “The final piece to a modern highlighted complexion is to take a pump of Serumizer and tap it on top of the cheekbones, bridge of the nose and Cupid’s bow.” Et voilà, naturally luminous skin that doesn’t look like a full face of glam — because as it turns out, the best highlighter is the one you don’t even see.