When Did I Become So Self-Conscious About My Lip Print?

A doctor once told me that nothing good ever comes from standing too close to the mirror. Unless what you're doing requires ultimate precision (personally, that's plucking my rather large eyebrows), an arm's length is best to ensure you don't inspect your skin texture too closely and accidentally hurt your own feelings. Here's the thing: unless you're a plastic mannequin, we all have texture, whether it's prominent pores, fine lines, bumps under the skin or the odd dry patch. This advice makes total sense when you consider that most people won't be standing this close to you anyway.

We've come a long way to reach acceptance. Thanks to beauty brands like Skin Proud and The Inkey List, it's now totally normal to see breakouts, wrinkles, scarring and hyperpigmentation on your social media feed. But it seems that lips didn't get the memo, because alongside these unfiltered snapshots of 'real' skin, you'll spot thousands of smooth, plump pouts without a single line or flaw.

Almost all these pictures have one thing in common: lip filler.

Before I go any further, I want to point out that Refinery29 is a judgement-free zone. Whether you opt for cosmetic treatments or not is a personal choice and one we respect. I've spoken about my nose surgery and baby Botox, for example, while we have reported in the past on filler and other lip-enhancing procedures such as the 'lip flip'. We aim to provide the knowledge so that you can make your own informed decision.

Interestingly, a 2019 Vice UK poll found that 59% of young people viewed procedures such as lip filler as comparable to getting a haircut or a manicure. Fast-forward to 2022 and not much has changed. The British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons recently reported that more aesthetic clinics are opening up on the high street to offer dermal fillers, while the hashtag #lipfiller has amassed 3.3 billion views and counting on TikTok. Filler is slowly being absorbed into conventional beauty treatments and I'm convinced that its normalisation has given me a complex.

I've come to realise that all the images of filled lips that are forced on me via TikTok or Instagram have made me self-conscious of my natural lips, in particular their prominent lines. I often fixate on them in the mirror while doing my makeup, and I fret. Why are the lines so deep? Will they get deeper? Is this normal or am I an anomaly?

I know I'm not the only one to become aware recently of their lip lines, also referred to as a 'lip print' by aestheticians. TikToker @hellokatiemo went viral earlier this year when a man told them to drink water because their lips are "wrinkly". "They're so used to seeing filler in these LA streets," said Katie, captioning the video: "Like sir, water doesn't make them inflate but thanks for the tip (no hate on filler)." It wasn't long before the comments came flooding in. "I hated wearing lipstick cuz my lips always looked ~wrinkly~ and then I learned it's the filler that make em smooth," observed one user. Another who hasn't had filler said that they've often thought this about their lips, too.

My lip lines aren't something I was previously embarrassed about but social media creates comparison culture. When smooth, plump and wrinkle-free lips are the only ones you see in selfies or on an aesthetician's social media page, it's unsurprising that many of us convince ourselves that our features aren't quite right.

When administered by a properly qualified professional, lip filler can be virtually undetectable and appear very natural. Aesthetics doctor and trainer Dr Jonny Betteridge of JB Aesthetics believes the unnaturally smooth, taut lip look is a result of the trend for overfilling lips. Dr Betteridge says that even 1ml of filler (especially in a single sitting) could be considered too much for some yet reports that many aestheticians go as far as using 5-10ml. It's no wonder that we assume lips should be entirely line-free. But what exactly are lip lines?

"The distinct pattern of lines and grooves visible on lips give rise to a person's lip print," explains Dr Harris, an award-winning aesthetic doctor. He is waging war on what he calls 'alienisation' in aesthetics: an unnatural, distorted look that has become normalised among young women in particular.

"Much like fingerprints, lip prints are unique to an individual and remain unchanged throughout life," adds Dr Harris. "They are unaffected by age and are not a sign of ageing." Similar to fingerprints, lip lines are genetically inherited, says Dr Harris, and can be more pronounced in some people. Lip lines can also look prominent if lips are dry or dehydrated, and may appear deeper when the weather is cold. Lip balm can help hydrate lips (Dr Betteridge recommends Vaseline and Carmex) but won't smooth away lines entirely.

It is imperative to realise, says Dr Betteridge, that lip lines are an entirely normal and natural part of your anatomy. He cites a technique of forensics called cheiloscopy, which looks at the definition of lip lines and how they might be able to identify human beings (much like a fingerprint at a crime scene).

When I lament the look of my lip lines over Zoom, Dr Betteridge tells me that I'm not alone. "At least 20-30% of people I see mention that they have lines on their lips," says Dr Betteridge. "They come in and say what you've just said: 'I've got these lines and I want them gone.' It's because of what we're seeing on social media."

Lip lines are completely normal, he says, but the lips we're seeing have been completely smoothed out. "Lip lines are not meant to be taken away," says Dr Betteridge, "but if they are, it's the first sign of distorting someone's natural beauty." He says he has heard of countless practitioners purposely trying to remove lip lines in patients, perhaps in keeping with social media trends. "Patients should be advised that [removing lip lines] is not the right thing to do," says Dr Betteridge.

It's likely the lips you've spotted on social media are a result of various filler trends such as 'tenting' or what Dr Harris says has become known as the 'Russian lip' technique. The top lip is so filled, it almost appears to be folded back on itself. "This technique creates a flat lip with a ledge for everyone," regardless of your lip or face shape, he says. Lip lines, as well as the little pillows of the lips, are flattened as a result.

"The technique involves multiple painful, vertical injections through the vermilion border of the lip [your top lip line] to the wet dry border [where your lips meet]," says Dr Harris. Though popular, it's actually pretty dangerous because this is where the labial arteries are commonly found, adds Dr Harris. The procedure increases the risk of blocked blood vessels (which could cause necrosis, whereby the skin tissue dies) and repeated injections could increase the risk of permanent scarring, which can affect the shape of the lips in the long run. The smoothness and loss of lip lines you see here, says Dr Betteridge, is purely from stretching the lip structure. It's a sign of overfilling.

Besides stretched lips, the technique often results in something called migration, says Dr Betteridge, where the lips are so overfilled that the filler moves out of the tissue space. "You can easily tell when someone has had too much filler," he continues. "It sits on their top ledge and affects the way they smile." In a static position (such as a picture on Instagram) the lips may look great. But as soon as someone starts talking or smiling, it changes the morphology of their face and looks odd around the mouth, says Dr Betteridge. Dr Harris agrees and adds that migration is often misleadingly referred to as a desirable 'crisp' border. In reality, it shows that something has gone wrong.

The lack of regulation in the UK means that there are lots of non-medics who are practising aesthetics. It's key to go to someone who is knowledgeable — ideally medically — and will treat you more conservatively, not distort your features, says Dr Betteridge. "Lips that are so smooth are not achievable or sensible."

Dr Harris and Dr Betteridge both advocate natural enhancement rather than ironing away lip lines and contributing to insecurities or distorting features. As a result, Dr Betteridge is often on the receiving end of abuse from those who practise filler differently.

"People post my results on Facebook groups for discussion," said Dr Betteridge, who is vocal on Instagram and TikTok. "Unfortunately, if you go against a particular trend, you touch a nerve with people who stick by it. Someone even made a TikTok video of my results and said something like, 'Why would you pay hundreds of pounds to still look the same? This person has no skill.'"

Dr Betteridge compares it to fighting a mountain. He says it's hard to educate patients that social media isn't real life. "I'm all about subtle enhancements that make you look like a better version of yourself, and I attract patients who want that look."

Beauty standards and trends change and Dr Betteridge says that young people in particular can be impressionable. "What we see is the bad stuff, and that's what people assume aesthetics looks like. This then filters down to those in their early 20s and late teens, and they think this is how they should appear." A lot of what you see on social media is pretence, adds Dr Betteridge. It's all lighting, Facetune and lots of lip gloss, and it's there to improve the look of the lips online. 

For patients who feel self-conscious about their lip prints, Dr Harris takes the time to reassure them that it is part of normal anatomy and what makes them unique. "Lip prints are individual and beautiful and something we should be celebrating rather than trying to cover up." He suggests it's not right to make everyone look the same.

That said, Dr Harris explains that a lip enhancement procedure can have countless benefits in terms of appearance and self-confidence when used appropriately. "The choice to enhance one's lips should be respected," says Dr Harris, and I wholeheartedly agree. But it's always recommended to view images with a critical eye and to remind ourselves that textureless lips may be misrepresented by many factors such as lighting, makeup, filters and Photoshop. It's also a must to seek out a qualified professional if you're interested in any kind of aesthetic procedure. Head to a website like Save Face, which can connect you with experts.

Dr Harris explains that a healthy diet, hydration, sun protection and applying a non-irritating lip balm during the day and before bed can help maintain healthy-looking lips. And he makes a very important point: "Human diversity is something we should be celebrating, not flattening."

Here's to embracing my lip lines in all their glory.