I Tried A Chemical Peel Aimed At Dark Skin Tones & My Skin Is Glowing

In my quest to achieve perfect skin I will try just about anything. But no matter which lotions and potions I’ve slathered across my face, I have never been able to get rid of my stubborn post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. As a teenager, I suffered from acne and as many of us melanated girlies know, the dark pigmentation marks that follow are not only hard to cover with makeup but take a very long time to clear, often needing help from expensive treatments like lasers or chemical peels.  

In 2023, hyperpigmentation was the number one search in the Black Skin Directory, showing just how much of an issue it is for sufferers. Chemical peels, lasers and microneedling are the most recommended treatments to help fade scarring and treat uneven skin tone. However between widespread misinformation and legitimate concerns, many still assume these treatments won’t work for those with darker skin tones as they carry the risk of further scarring. Because darker skin types contain more naturally occurring melanin, treatments such as lasers and peels (when applied incorrectly) can trigger trauma in the skin which increases melanin production, leading to hyperpigmentation or scarring. As a result, some Black people feel more invasive treatments aren’t an option.

Happily, advances in skincare technology are offering Black and brown customers safe and effective alternatives. Kelly Saynor, clinical director of Renew Medical Aesthetics, nurse practitioner and Black skin expert, tells Refinery29 that when treating Black skin it’s important to “get the approach spot-on to dodge any pigmentation woes or scarring” and recommends opting for gentler, light to medium peels to tackle mild skin discolouration and pigmentation issues. “[Gentle peels] can make a world of difference, [as well as] avoiding those that might throw your skin's colour balance off-kilter,” Saynor advises.

When I heard about Dermalogica’s brand-new offering, the Melanopro peel, a treatment targeted at darker skin tones to combat pigmentation, I knew I had to give it a try. I was gifted the treatment but typically it costs around £350 for the full system. Dermalogica claims that Melanopro targets a number of pigmentation issues including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, dark spots and melasma over six weeks.

I did my treatment with Dr Ahmed El Muntasar at The Aesthetics Doctor, who was so warm and instantly made me feel relaxed. He explained that the treatment “can be used for everyone and anyone and on all Fitzpatrick skin types” to help with issues such as pigmentation, texture, visible pores and hyperpigmentation (the Fitzpatrick scale is a system for classifying skin type according to its response to ultraviolet light). Dr Ahmed also explained that the treatment can be customised depending on individual skin needs. “For example, [with Melanopro] you're able to treat sensitive darker skin, which usually is such a delicate type of skin that peels are not always recommended, however with the Melanopro peel, you can customise it completely and the patients can customise how much peeling they get based on the peeling cream that they take home.”

We started the Melanopro treatment with a light cleanse to remove anything on the skin. I would highly recommend not using any actives (including vitamin C and retinol) on the skin in the days leading up to the treatment to ensure your skin is not overworked and you can obtain the best possible results. After the cleanse, Dr Ahmed applied step one of the process, which is the peeling mask (the whole tube should be applied).  

The peel is a blend of high-strength actives including azelaic acid, salicylic acid, tranexamic acid, retinol, niacinamide and a brightening peptide. Azelaic acid and niacinamide are heroes for brightening skin, salicylic acid promotes exfoliation, tranexamic acid is a powerhouse for fighting discolouration and retinol helps the skin to make new cells and fight acne. I must warn you: This thick, white mask has to stay on your face for four to seven hours, which I was not aware of beforehand. This meant I received some strange looks as I walked down Oxford Street to get the bus home (the things I will do for content). 

After evaluating my skin, Dr Ahmed and I agreed that it would be best to keep the mask on for five hours. I felt a little sensitivity, some slight tingling and a general cold feeling but it was generally pretty comfortable (apart from the embarrassment of people seeing me with it on). After five hours I removed the mask with warm water, making gentle circular motions with my fingers so as not to irritate the skin. Step two of the system consists of a few goodies to take home, including a continuous peeling cream that is to be used day and night for six weeks. This cream contains many of the same active ingredients as the peel. But I’ll be honest, this product was not made with Black girls in mind: It leaves white marks, pills and generally does not blend well. 

There is also a gentle cleanser for daily use, an SPF and a calming spray for when your skin is feeling tight. It is a pretty straightforward system, however, applying makeup on top of the cream peel is very difficult as it doesn’t create the smoothest base. Slathering this thick, beige paste across my face twice a day got pretty inconvenient, especially as I didn't see huge results, and I'll admit I became less diligent with the application. During this process it is absolutely imperative, however, that you use SPF religiously. If not, you could be left with more pigmentation due to the intensity of the products. 

For the seven days following the treatment, I noticed my skin feeling tight, dry and peeling. It flaked at first, then progressed to full peeling as if I were dealing with a high-grade sunburn. While you can use the calming spray to make the peeling look less obvious, I found myself pulling on small bits of skin. I found this really satisfying as it provided a clear-cut sign that the peel was peeling. I was told that this was normal and over the six weeks I would observe my skin gradually evening out. Initially I didn’t notice a huge difference between my old skin and my new skin — it didn’t seem to be any more glowy or even. But I was told I would start seeing real changes by week four, and right they were. My skin did start to appear more even and the stubborn pigmentation has definitely faded. I have felt barely any sensitivity in my skin during this process and can confirm that the ultra calming spray is essential for banishing any tenderness. 

Melanopro isn’t the only peel aimed at darker-skinned customers. Saynor tells me that another effective peel for darker skin tones is The Perfect Peel Superblend, “a transformative, medium-depth chemical peel designed to address a wide range of skin concerns including acne, uneven texture and tone, pigmentation and signs of ageing”. It contains a lower percentage of acids that seek to protect the skin's pigment: lactic acid, salicylic acid and trichloroacetic acid (TCA) for exfoliation, azelaic acid, kojic acid and ethyl ascorbic acid (vitamin C) for brightening, mandelic acid and retinol to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and acne, and finally resorcinol, which is used as an antiseptic and disinfectant for skin disorders and infections. 

For Saynor, preventing hyperpigmentation is better than the cure. “Keeping up with the SPF to fend off any sun-induced pigment changes is your best bet,” she says. And in terms of other skincare products? “You need lower percentages [of actives] with lots of ingredients working in synergy to manage and reduce the risk of [post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation]. Glycolic, lactic or salicylic acid, lower TCA and retinol are great.” To avoid irritation, it's advisable to stick to just one or two active ingredients in a skincare routine.

For me, the major inconvenience of the Melanopro peel is that it takes six weeks. Other popular peels on the market such as the Obagi peel and the VI peel usually have a downtime of a week; with Melanopro, because you're using the continuous peeling cream for six weeks, your skin is shedding the whole time. The cream also leaves a white cast and it is advised not to wear makeup on top of it. For the most part, the peel did get rid of my remaining post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation but I can’t say that it fit into my lifestyle or cleared my skin as much as other hardworking products like Hue Supra Fade, £52, a night serum which contains seven actives to target hyperpigmentation. Another hero product of mine is Topicals Faded Brightening & Clearing Serum, £35, which contains many of the same acids as the Melanopro peel.

Overall, while there are still some pigmentation issues, I am feeling pretty confident about my skin and it definitely seems to be plumper and brighter. Donna Tait, expert facialist and cofounder of Katherine Daniels skincare, tells me: “When it comes to treating pigmentation, it’s important to understand that visible pigmentation is a sign that the skin is vulnerable, so using harsh and abrasive products will do more harm than good. For best results that will actually last, you need to strengthen the skin first.” Working on issues like dryness and dehydration is a great place to start if you're looking to combat pigmentation.