My Hyaluronic Acid Serum Stopped Working, So Now I Use This Powerful Ingredient

Ever since I started taking skincare seriously in my late teens, a hyaluronic acid serum has remained a constant in my routine. It is by far the most dependable product that addresses my number-one priority — hydration — and since nearly every skincare brand offers it, there is no shortage of affordable options available. However, this trusty product has been letting me down lately. Perhaps it’s the hot and dry weather we’ve been having, or maybe my skin barrier is changing as I enter my 30s. All I know is that my face has been feeling parched and itchy, even after using the hyaluronic acid serum that I've depended on for years.

With that in mind, I went in search of a more powerful hydrating product and discovered an ingredient that I hadn’t heard of before.

Enter: vitamin B5, also known as panthenol.

I came by this ingredient during my hunt for a K-beauty sheet mask aka my last resort to give my skin an emergency infusion of moisture. Mediheal’s Derma Synergy Wrapping Mask Sheet For Moisture, £4.49, banished my tight, itchy, dehydrated skin like magic. The main ingredients happened to be hyaluronic acid and vitamin B5. I have now switched to a hyaluronic acid serum paired with vitamin B5 (Medik8’s Hydr8 B5 Moisturising Serum, £45, for those wondering) and have noticed a big difference in how well my skin holds onto moisture. Have I been missing a trick all along?

Ahead, I asked a handful of R29’s go-to dermatologists and experienced beauty editors to give us the lowdown on vitamin B5 and how it can boost the hydrating properties of trusty hyaluronic acid. I also asked these experts to recommend their favourite products featuring this dynamic duo, which will give your skin the instant drink of water it needs this summer and beyond.

Let’s talk about hyaluronic acid first. This active ingredient has the capacity to attract and retain water molecules, making skin look plump and hydrated. It really is smart. Dr Kajal Babamiri, dermatologist and aesthetic doctor at CLNQ, explains that hyaluronic acid can actually hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water.

Just like hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5 — or panthenol, as you might see it on various ingredients lists — is a humectant, which means it too attracts moisture. The difference? It also keeps that moisture under lock and key in the skin. “When used together, vitamin B5 and hyaluronic acid work synergistically, with vitamin B5 soothing the skin, reducing redness and inflammation,” adds Dr Ellie Rashid, consultant dermatologist and Klira pro medical director. She explains that vitamin B5 can also improve uneven skin texture and regulate oil production, making it great for those with oily, acne-prone skin. But both vitamin B5 and hyaluronic acid are so gentle, they can be tolerated by those with sensitive and reactive skin, too.

The experts have spoken: Vitamin B5 ramps up the efficacy of hyaluronic acid by strengthening the skin's barrier function, allowing it to hold onto hydration more effectively. In other words, they're the perfect dynamic duo. As such, I'll now always look for the two ingredients together when buying a hydrating serum — and if your skin is feeling as parched as mine, I'd recommend the same.

Below is an edit of products that have received our seal of approval.

“Known for its affordability without compromising on quality, The Ordinary’s hyaluronic acid serum offers a straightforward formula, with three types of hyaluronic acid molecules that penetrate different layers of the skin for optimal hydration. The addition of vitamin B5 enhances the serum's hydrating and skin-soothing properties, making it a favourite for those looking for effective hydration on a budget.” — Dr Kajal Babamiri, dermatologist and aesthetic doctor at CLNQ

“This serum uses multiple molecular weights of hyaluronic acid (small, medium and large) to distribute deep hydration evenly throughout different layers of the skin. Hyaluronic acid with a smaller molecular weight can absorb deeper, and larger molecules penetrate more superficially. The weightless, watery texture is great for summer.” — Dr Ellie Rashid, consultant dermatologist and Klira pro medical director

“Not long ago, I was lucky enough to go skincare shopping with consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Hextall. She recommended a wealth of skin-quenching products (my combination skin is prone to acne and flaky patches) but this is the only one that I used down to the last drop. Compared to other hyaluronic acid serums, which are rather watery, this boasts a thicker consistency which means I can get away with skipping moisturiser and going straight in with my sunscreen in the morning. I'm convinced that it blurred the fine lines around my eyes and forehead (that'll be the hyaluronic acid) and the addition of vitamin B5 meant that it kept the pesky patches of dry skin around my mouth at bay.” — Jacqueline Kilikita, Refinery29 deputy beauty director

“This serum is praised for its silky texture that layers well under other products. It provides immediate hydration, leaving the skin feeling supple and bouncy. The inclusion of vitamin B5 helps to calm and soften the skin, making it a great option for those with sensitive or dehydrated skin.” — Shenaz Shariff, advanced aesthetic practitioner at The Face and Body Clinic

“This serum is well-loved for its lightweight, gel-like consistency that absorbs quickly into the skin. It combines a high concentration of hyaluronic acid with vitamin B5, which not only hydrates but also helps to repair the skin barrier. Users often report a noticeable improvement in skin texture and plumpness, making it ideal for rehydration and maintaining a smooth, healthy complexion.” — Dr Kajal Babamiri, dermatologist and aesthetic doctor at CLNQ