It’s Time To Restore Professionalism In The Black Hair Salon Experience

As Black women, we take great pride in our hair and will go to great lengths to make sure we achieve the perfect style — no matter the time or effort it involves. And honestly, we will pay whatever the cost. So it’s not surprising that the global Black haircare market is expected to reach $4.9 billion by 2033, up from $3.2 billion in 2023. 

With so much time, money, and energy invested in our hair, finally securing an appointment with the right stylist should feel like a win. And at first, it does. But what happens when that excitement falls short of expectations? What once was a cultural safe haven for women, a place for community and a sanctuary to literally and figuratively let your hair down has become a source of frustration or, worst case scenario, a complete nightmare due to an increase in unprofessional hairstylists.

Let’s take a collective deep sigh because we need to talk about it. I know it’s not just me because I have these conversations every other week — at brunch, in coffee shops, or in the group chat about the latest saga of lack of professionalism in Black hair salons. From booking to the final styling, the complete disregard for basic business practices shows up at every step of the process. It wasn't always like this. So what happened?

Now, I pride myself on being a law-abiding Black-hair client. I take the time to read all the terms and conditions before booking an appointment. Through my experiences, I’ve become well-versed in what has seemingly become the industry standard. The average late fee is between $15 and $30 if you arrive up to 15 minutes late to the appointment. Many stylists will understandably require you to reschedule the appointment for anything beyond that, and you will forfeit the security deposit.

But professionalism is a two-way street. If there’s a financial penalty for me as a client, there should be one for the stylist. For me, one of the first signs of an unprofessional stylist is the lack of a policy on how they handle running behind schedule. It does not sit right with me that I am required to be on time to avoid a late fee, yet many stylists don’t offer any type of discount on my service when they’re running late.

Some unprofessional stylists cancel appointments at an unreasonable time. I understand that life happens and things come up. However, if clients are a no-call, no-show, or cancel less than 24 hours before the appointment, stylists will charge at least 50% of the service booked (in addition to the forfeited deposit) with the credit card on file.

Yet, there was no one for me to charge for the inconvenience when a Houston stylist canceled my 7:00 a.m. sew-in appointment around 8:43 p.m. the night before. She texted that she did not have the hair I requested but suggested I could still get serviced with my own extensions, with different hair she had available, or I could choose a different service. The stylist not having the hair wasn’t the problem — it’s the fact that the service and hair were available to book in the first place.

If she had alerted me earlier in the day, I could have found hair extensions in Houston and, while annoyed, still made the appointment. Why shouldn’t I demand that my service be 50% off when using her rules? This particular stylist has permanently lost me as a customer. I continue to warn my inner circle to avoid her services because God forbid she cancels on my family or friends before their first day of work like she did me.

The unprofessionalism plaguing the hair industry is bigger than deposits, cancellations or no-show fees. My sister, who has locs down to her waist, stopped going to her loctician because she frequently took breaks to gossip on the phone in another room.  

A growing number of stylists — mainly braiders— now expect clients to arrive with their hair already washed and blow-dried. And if your hair is longer than shoulder length or considered thick, extra charges will likely be added for certain styles, from braids to silk presses.

DeAnna Maxwell, who considers herself an “old-school” stylist and founder of Unto Him Hair Salon and Spa in Akron, Ohio, says, “I always teach consumers, whether my client or somebody else’s, to interview your hairdresser the same way you would ask questions to a company during a job interview.”

She added, “Find out about the hairstylist policies and processes. They should not service you if you feel uncomfortable.” This reinforces a valid point that client-stylist relationships should be built on mutual trust, respect and understanding.

Undeniably, stylists face financial challenges from unreliable clients, leading to many having opted to set up terms, conditions and deposits. As hairstylist and TikTok user hairstylistbusinesscoach states, “I run a business and not a charity. When you book a time slot, that’s a time slot that we couldn’t give somebody else. Y’all gotta realize this is how we take care of our families. This is how we pay our bills.” This highlights the business realities driving these policies.

It’s also clear that some hairstylists have probably reached their breaking points with foul clients. Although these are justifiable frustrations it shouldn’t lead or translate into unprofessional conduct across the board.  

According to fashion and costume historian Shelby Ivey Christie, one significant reason for unprofessional hairstylists is the lack of experience. “A salon suite does not make a professional stylist,” she said on X, in response to the viral incident involving Jayla Cunningham, a Maryland stylist facing second-degree assault charges for allegedly assaulting a 15-year-old and cutting out her extensions over a payment dispute.

Cunningham told local reporters the teen she serviced tried running out of the appointment without paying. However, the teen’s mother says she sent the money to the wrong Cash App user.

“Professional is not describing your ability to take payments. Professional is actually alluding to your level of mastery in your skilled work and your years of experience," Christie continued. Further reiterating that the situation could have been de-escalated with greater experience and professionalism.

Maxwell, who has been an entrepreneur for nearly three decades, reinforces this, stressing the importance of mentorship for younger hairstylists beginning their careers in the industry.

“Many new hairstylists come out of school with false hope and think that hair school teaches you everything you need to know, but hair school only teaches you how to pass state boards,” she says. “Mentorship will teach professionalism and allow new stylists to retain clientele to thrive in this business.”

As more clients continue to speak out in hopes to hold stylists accountable, I hope this moment ignites a reckoning between hairstylists and clients. I hope we can find common ground, where we respect each other’s time, uphold professionalism and reclaim the joy in our haircare experiences.  Otherwise, at least for me, the alternative is investing in a one-on-one class and learning some of these skills myself. Since many of us are already required to come with our hair washed, blow-dried, and stretched out, we're halfway there in the styling process. Imagine how much money and frustration we could save by bypassing the stylists who show little to no regard for professionalism or our hard-earned coins.

At the same time, we can’t ignore the rich legacy we all stand on. The rise of Black women entrepreneurs today is built on the foundation of pioneering women like Madam C.J. Walker, who transformed the haircare industry through mastery, innovation, and service. Both stylists and clients are descendants of this legacy, one shaped by women who took great honor in their craft and reputation. Our hair is more than just aesthetics, it’s a symbol of our individuality, a form of personal self-expression that deserves to be handled with care. When we have a lackluster experience, it doesn’t just waste our time and money. It diminishes the artistry and cultural significance of our crown.

As a community and for our culture, it’s time to get back to a place where getting our hair done is a positive experience, not a hassle. A space of community, self-care, comfort and excellence—where professionalism isn’t optional but expected.