My Skin Always Looks Worse After A Facial — But Why?

I have a confession to make: I hate facials. That’s a small problem considering it’s part and parcel of my job to try new treatments with all manner of hi-tech machines and buzzy ingredients. More often than not I turn them down with a flimsy excuse: “My dermatologist wouldn’t like it!” (I don’t have a dermatologist.) “I’m allergic to everything!” (A barefaced lie.) It makes me sound spoilt, I know, but here’s the thing: When I do say yes, I end up paying for it with clusters of breakouts (which eventually lead to scarring that’s difficult to shift), alongside dry, rough patches — and subsequently — low self-esteem. It’s baffling. Facials are meant to make your skin look “better”, so why do I experience the opposite? 

Interestingly, it seems I’m not the only one. The query “breakout after facial” is currently up by 90% on Google Trends, and “Why does my skin look worse after a facial?” has 86.7 million posts on TikTok alone. Like me, breakouts, peeling, irritation and redness are just a handful of gripes that people experience following facial treatments. 

In a bid to understand what’s going on, I spoke to a dermatologist and a qualified esthetician — and here’s everything I learned. 

Consultant Dermatologist Dr. Ellie Rashid tells me that I’m not alone; her skin has often looked “worse” after a facial, too. “A lot of the time, a facial usually isn’t tailored to a person’s specific skin concerns, nor is a thorough dermatological history taken to understand a person’s skin behavior,” she says. It makes sense considering that lots of facials follow a predetermined routine and fixed list of products. Judging by web searches, the most frequent concern is breakouts following a facial, and there are a few reasons why this could happen. 

Most commonly, certain products used could be too heavy or pore-clogging, says Dr. Rashid. Notoriously pore-clogging ingredients can range from natural oils like coconut oil to moisturizers like shea butter, both of which are often found in face creams and masks. 

Another reason for increased breakouts could be “skin purging”, says Dr. Paris Acharya, leading esthetics and skincare expert, and cofounder of The Ardour Clinic. This is essentially clogged pores coming to the surface, says Dr. Acharya. It’s especially frequent when using a new skincare product such as retinol, which encourages the production of new skin cells, but it’s also a side effect of some facials: “Especially those that involve rigorous, deep cleansing elements, which can often clean the skin to a deeper level than you’re used to,” says Dr. Acharya. Exfoliation in particular clears out pores of old skin cells and oil, and can lead to sudden breakouts in the form of blackheads and whiteheads. Though not exactly what you want following a facial, a skin purge usually clears up on its own relatively quickly. Bigger, angrier spots that persist aren’t normal, though, so it’s worth getting back in touch with your facialist for advice.

Besides breakouts, dry, rough patches of skin are also usual following facial treatments for a handful of reasons. “After treatments that have involved things like chemical peels and exfoliants [like glycolic, lactic or salicylic acid], it is sometimes common to experience slight dry patches or peeling skin because the products temporarily compromise your skin barrier,” says Dr. Acharya. She adds that it’s sometimes a sign that your skin is shedding old cells to make room for new ones. In other words, it’s a positive indication that the treatment has worked. But there’s a fine line. “If you’re experiencing excessive roughness and texture then this means that the products were likely too strong and harsh for your skin type,” says Dr. Acharya, who advises stripping back your skincare and applying a hydrating moisturizer or serum to infuse the skin with extra moisture while your skin returns to normal.

Though exfoliation is beneficial, especially for those with acne-prone skin and hyperpigmentation, Dr. Acharya notes that facials can often include much higher concentrations of exfoliating ingredients compared to those you’d find in over-the-counter skincare. Then there are skincare tools and high-power lasers, which can also result in redness, inflammation and itchy skin, particularly when used incorrectly. “If your skin isn’t used to harsh products then it can leave your skin barrier confused and irritated,” says Dr. Acharya. It can be tempting to opt for the most powerful facial, especially if it’s a one off, but it pays to start slow. “Extractions and pore-cleaning processes can also lead to disruption,” adds Dr. Acharya, “so it’s sometimes best to take a gentler approach — especially if you’re new to facials.” In rare instances, your skin may be allergic or sensitized to certain ingredients, adds Dr. Acharya, and in this case you will need to strip back your at home regime to allow your skin to heal.

Talking of at-home routines, it’s important to be honest about what you’re using so that your products don’t interfere with any ingredients applied during the facial treatment. Suppose you’re using a high strength retinol and then you book in for a facial with additional exfoliating ingredients like AHAs or high dose antioxidants such as vitamin C. “This may tip skin over the edge and leave skin feeling red, irritated or itchy,” says Dr. Rashid. 

Lastly, Dr. Rashid points out that layering multiple products (as is often the case during facials) can increase the risk of perioral dermatitis, a skin condition characterized by a red rash around the mouth. It’s recommended to strip your skincare routine back to basics at home with a simple cleanser and a “bland” moisturizer.

Dr. Rashid has some sage advice for getting the most out of facial treatments. After all, they can be expensive. Firstly, consider a consultation (usually free) a few days before the actual facial — especially if you have sensitive or reactive skin, which your facialist will need to know about. “You can even ask for products to be put on your wrist and see how your skin responds,” says Dr. Rashid — sort of like a patch test. At least five days before a facial, Dr. Acharya advises her clients to stop using any active products including vitamin C, retinol or exfoliating acids.

Besides this, ask questions about the ingredients and products used. Any good facialist or esthetician will be more than willing to explain — in detail — the ins and outs of your treatment before getting started. Remember that all skin is different. “Just because a facial your friend had left them feeling amazing, it may be a different story for you, as each individual needs a facial tailored to their specific skin type,” says Dr. Rashid. Likewise, Dr. Acharya suggests evaluating your skin type and then looking into the treatments that will compliment you.

Lastly, Dr. Rashid drives home the importance of speaking up if something doesn’t feel right, burns or tingles.

Post facial, you’d be forgiven for resuming your skincare routine as usual, but this could be a fast track to undoing any positive results. Most facialists and estheticians will usually provide an aftercare plan that is specific to the treatment you’ve had, says Dr. Rashid, and it pays to stick to it. Aside from specifics relating to your treatment and skin type — for instance, staying away from strong retinoids for a little while — the general advice post-facial is to avoid direct sun exposure (recommended regardless considering how damaging UV can be) and to use a high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen in the daytime, adds Dr. Rashid. “Drink plenty of water and try to avoid touching or rubbing your face,” she says. “Depending on your skin type, you may also prefer to use lighter, non-comedogenic cleansers and moisturizers,” which are less likely to clog your pores and cause breakouts. 

I particularly like The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser, and Medik8 Total Moisture Daily Facial Cream, which work across all skin types. 

Lastly, avoid over-exfoliation, says Dr. Rashid, as it may strip your skin barrier — the outermost layer of skin that keeps “good” stuff in (think moisture) and “bad” stuff out (like bacteria). This is especially important if exfoliating ingredients have been used in high concentrations during your treatment. It’s so easy to go overboard at home. 

When it comes to facials, I trust my beauty editor peers to tell me what’s worth it — and what’s not. Award-winning beauty and wellness journalist Twiggy Jalloh rates Murad facials. “My skin gets very congested but [my facialist] had a lot of patience when it came to clearing everything away,” says Jalloh. “She gives such great advice and I always see a difference in my skin afterwards.”

For freelance beauty editor Lucy Abbersteen, it has to be a Hydrafacial for cleansing, extracting and hydrating. It’s available at various skincare clinics. “This leaves my skin noticeably clearer, glowier, nourished and more lifted,” she says. “Seeing the gunk that’s extracted afterwards is very satisfying.” Journalist and editor Vicky Spratt has long extolled the virtues of QMS facials, available in various cities worldwide, while a handful of my R29 colleagues have waxed lyrical about Sofie Pavitt Skincare Studio, and facialist Joanna Czech.

All this talk of incredible facials jogged my memory. Though it was almost five years ago now, the only facial which made an ounce of difference to my oily, acne-prone skin was a retinol peel — actually performed by Dr. Acharya — at her previous clinic. While my face did indeed peel (like an onion) for a day or two afterwards, I remember just how confident I felt when it uncovered the smoothest, clearest skin of my life. In other words, finding the right facial for your skin type can prove transformative.

The TDLR: Facials should be a beneficial experience rather than making skin worse, says Dr. Acharya. If in doubt, always consult with your doctor, esthetician or facialist before booking in.