Should I Replace My Conditioner With A Hair Mask? An Investigation.

I recently learned that Blake Lively hasn’t used conditioner in 20 years. In fact, in a recent interview with Vogue to promote her new hair-care line, Blake Brown Beauty, she double-downed on her anti-conditioner position, saying that in her industry, she actually doesn’t “know anyone who uses conditioner.” (The actor instead uses a hair mask after shampooing.)

Maybe it was a throwaway comment or a deliberate ploy to cause controversy leading to conversation around her brand — which, according to investor reports, is selling out at Targets across the country. (Per Lively’s philosophy, Blake Brown Beauty doesn’t sell conditioners, just shampoo and hair masks.) But is she onto something here? Is there merit to skipping conditioner altogether and replacing that step with a hair mask?

I gave it a try and, spoiler alert: The results are not ideal. Keep reading for the full story there.

Let’s talk about what differentiates a conditioner from a hair mask. The short answer: Not much.

“A hair mask is essentially a more concentrated version of a conditioner,” explains Shab Caspara, a hairstylist, trichologist, and brand ambassador for haircare brand JooY. From a chemical perspective, hair masks often contain higher concentrations of fatty acids (oils) than conditioners, giving them a heavier texture. The weightiness or buttery consistency is also why many popular hair masks, including Blake Brown Beauty’s, are packaged in a tub that requires finger-scooping. This isn't the case for all hair masks — for example, I love the Roz Foundation Mask, a brand-new, immediately-trendy formula that dropped the same week as Lively’s line, which comes in a sustainable aluminum tube, mirroring the packaging of popular skincare moisturizers like Summer Fridays Jet Lag Mask and Dieux Instant Angel Moisturizer.

Well, if you’re looking for a personal testimonial, I made the swap, using a hair mask in place of conditioner for a few washes to see what happened. For context, my hair is long (like, it needs a cut), thick, and naturally wavy. I don’t color it, but I use a blow dryer, so there’s some dryness. My biggest concern with my hair is that it can feel weighed down when I use heavy products. No surprise, that’s exactly what happened in this experiment —  but not immediately.

At first, it worked. After the first wash subbing a hair mask for conditioner, my hair dried so soft and without frizz that I was able to air dry it to 90% and just then use a blow dryer to dry the bottom pieces around the nape of my neck (because I never go to sleep with damp hair). I was sold…until the next wash, three days later, when I went for round two: I did the exact same thing, and my hair felt waxy, refused to dry completely, and felt heavy to the touch, greasy, and matted at the roots. 

According to Caspara, this happened because a hair mask should be considered a treatment product. “These masks deliver a potent dose of ingredients that are often too rich, heavy, or powerful for daily use,” she explains.

Well, what if you’re not washing your hair every day, but more like a few times a week? The answer is, still: Use sparingly. “Hair masks should be used on an as-needed basis,” adds Caspara. Twice in one week, for me and my hair, was overkill.

It pays to be mindful of your hair’s needs when choosing products. While a hair mask may work as a conditioner replacement for some people (like Lively), it’s not advisable for everyone, especially if you have a fine hair type or you're prone to product buildup.

While hair masks can offer intensive treatment and long-term benefits — for example, the Roz Foundation Mask is clinically proven to reduce breakage by 31% after a single use, and I highly recommend it — they’re generally best used as a supplement to your regular haircare routine rather than a direct replacement for conditioner. Me? I’ll continue to use my hair mask on occasion and conditioner the rest of the time.