Rising Star Julian Louie Plays With Geometry and Dreamy Bullfighters

Shhhhh. Julian Louie's presentation in the afternoon light streaming down from the skylight at Chelsea's Drive-In Studios was surely the quietest we've been to all year. Still, it made an impact. Based on motifs and troupes derived from Spanish bullfighter attire, Mr. Louie applied the three-dimensional use of felts, wools, crystals, and geometric cut outs which have become an instant trademark and made him a fast favorite of the critical set. Despite such acclaim, some of the shoulders were over-constructed baskets of netting that would have done better in a Mad Max sequel. The triangles of wool sitting on tri-angled breasts, towering collars, miniature hoop skirts, and cut-and-paste construction were impressive, but too academic by far. Still, there was a delicacy there—one that only makes us wish for more wearable designs by Louie in years to come.