Though freight elevator trips were a frequent highlight of Fashion Week this season, Phi took that ride out of context (read: a few blocks from Milk) to add a layer of exclusivity to their spring/summer show. Front-rowers like Carine Roitfeld, Lauren Santo Domingo, and Erin Wasson entered through a single white service door on 15th Street--despite the invite offering a 9th Avenue address--and queued for the ride to an intimate 16th floor loft space with diffused light and an L-shaped runway. The muddled directions may have confused Taylor Momsen, who arrived with Teen Vogue-r Andrew Bevan after security closed the door and, after posing for street-style photogs (one of which was our little birdy), complained to Bevs that the situation was "bullshit." Those who actually made it in got a first-hand look at the black, white, and beige Andreas Melbostad-designed clothes that are sure to be hard to find in a reasonable size come spring, in fact, we'd happily wait on line anywhere for Phi's motorcycle jackets and bandage jeans. The usual body-con dresses were more forgiving, as they skimmed below the knee and were layered with sheer knits. While zippers played a role, the functional embellishments that mark the season are buckles, elastic bands, and laces that hug the curves like bungee cords. And those boots! We're pretty sure at least one of us owned a pair like them in mid-1992, but the chunky-heeled, refined military numbers will definitely be on our wish-list come spring.
AdvertisementADVERTISEMENT