Coming From A Biased Jamaican, Sint Maarten Is Very Underrated

If you ask any Jamaican, 8 out 10 (8 being modest) will tell you their country is the best island in the Caribbean. For most of my adult life, I've had no desire to visit any other island but my own. 

"We have the richest, most influential culture. We have the best beaches. What do I need to go to any other island for?" — a convincing argument from my Ocho Rios-raised mother. But there was only one place she had a soft interest for: St. Maarten. Naturally, I was curious to discover what sets the Caribbean location apart from the others. What better way than to visit the country myself?

First of all, any island that's separated by two different governed countries obviously sounds like an anomaly. Not only do the French and Dutch sides recognize different holidays and policies, but the vibes are really day and night. My press group and I stayed at a resort on the Dutch side and I'm personally glad we did. The Dutch section is significantly more developed when it comes to nightlife, restaurants, shopping, etc. It’s almost a bit Americanized, which was convenient for me since it was my first time there. Meanwhile, the French side has more of a European feel to it with more modest living and awe-striking architecture. Of course, they share a beach shore, but even that experience can feel different depending on which side you’re on. The shared beautiful blue waters and white sands are the same, but the Dutch side has more tourist crowds while the French has more locals.

Before I get ahead of myself, let's start with what was my home for my  three days on there, Sonesta Ocean Point Resort. It's an all-inclusive luxury beachfront property. One side is family-friendly and the other adults-only. I was thoroughly impressed with my stay — from the convenient walkability to shops and the staff's hospitality (especially when my phone fell over my balcony into the pool and everyone who saw was onsite, ready with a bowl of rice), to my personal cliff-side balcony overlooking the ocean. There was even a generous bathroom equipped with a massive shower room and bathtub for two. Trust me when I say there were even more luxurious set-ups available that included personal butler service and exclusive entrances to private pools. Yes, it's BIG baecation vibes over there. I was pleased with the food, too. The menus had a great mix of options, some that embraced St. Maarten culture and some that were familiar to Americans who'd want to play it safe.

I was anxious to get my excursion started. While I felt like a non-colonizing modern-day explorer, I also felt very at home. Everything about St. Maarten sparked an early childhood memory that reminded me of a piece of Jamaica. One example was our visit to TJ's Cassava Coal Pot, a cozy family-owned restaurant where we made our own Johnny cakes (fried dumplings), salt fish, and fried plantain for breakfast. Usually the only time I'm lifting a finger on vacation is to scratch my head. But I was genuinely excited to show off my bare island cooking skills to Chef Jewel. My cooking with Granny nostalgia kicked in, and I quickly became her unofficial Sous Chef.

It was impossible to ignore the link between St. Maarten's current-day inhabitants and slavery, though. We learned that much of the land that had families living on them (and wasn't government-owned) was land passed down through generations after slavery was abolished. Walking through Pasture Piece took quite an emotional toll on me. The now-Historic bed and breakfast was once the plantation where host, Natasha's, ancestors once worked. There was something so sorrowful, yet beautifully admirable, knowing the place that was home to the torture and pain of her predecessors was turned into a historical landmark owned by their descendants. The strength to turn a physical representation of her forefathers' story into a well-respected landmark is truly amazing.

The history lessons didn't stop there. Ras Bush Man’s Ital Shack is an all-vegan restaurant that was voted one of the top 10 Caribbean restaurants on USA Today. Upon arrival, I was transported again to my trips driving into Kingston, JA, stopping, and sitting down for lunch at a quaint restaurant on the edge of the road. Ras and his family greeted us with warm pleasantries. I was wondering why the place felt so homey, and that's because it was quite literally that. Ital Shack used to be the Bush Mans' home and they turned it into a restaurant, (so if you're into atmosphere, this is place worth visiting.) Ras, a true to-the-T Rastafarian, regaled us with stories of becoming vegan, practices of Rastafari culture, and his love for giving back to the earth. Of course, Ras didn't forget to tell us about how the late Anthony Bourdain raved over his dishes in an episode of A Cook's Tour. And rightly so!

This was the FRESHEST food I ate my entire trip, and that's because every single vegetable, herb, and ingredient in Ras' recipes is grown right in his backyard. From the curry potato and chickpea tofu to the lentils soup and soursop juice. Like any Rasta, Ras also prepared his own marijuana for some healthy "green tea" he shared with the group. I'm personally not much of an edible person, but whether or not I got to take a spliff back to the hotel is between me and my quick disappearance before dinner.

Closing out my trip, I only have two regrets: 1) Not taking full advantage of the no-sale tax policy. Even though I got a beautiful gold ring (yes, gold, not gold-plated), I wish I had also gotten perfume. 2) Only staying for three days. With such a rich culture, there was so much I didn't get to discover, and wish I saw more of the French side. The upside is that it gives me another reason to return. Now, to all my Jamaicans reading this, I still stay true to our home, but I'd be lying if I said St. Maarten is "likkle but tallawah" in their own right.