How I Maintain My “Smoky Brunette” Highlights At Home

As a tween who came of age in the ‘00s, there was nothing I wanted more than to dye my hair every color of the rainbow. With their flame-red streaks, pop-punk princesses Avril Lavigne and Hayley Williams were my beauty icons — but my parents didn't entertain the thought for even a millisecond. Now that I’m 30, I tend to think they were probably right — boring, sure, but right; I can count on one hand the number of times my brunette — almost black — hair has been touched by bleach. (I was well into my 20s the first time I colored my hair, and it is strong, thick, and healthy as can be.) However, I’d be lying if I said that I didn’t want to experiment with my color, and as Refinery29's senior writer with a penchant for all things beauty, I’ve had a front-row seat to virtually every hair color trend to grace our FYPs: That being said, only one shade has caught my eye in recent years: “Expensive” brunette.

There was a certain effortless, cool vibe about the “expensive” brunette trend that appealed to me, but I thought it could be improved with a cooler (literally), smoky twist to add some edge. So I went to Pinterest and compiled hairspo images of dark bases like mine punctuated with ash-toned highlights. To achieve the look, I sought out Chase Kusero, celebrity stylist and IGK cofounder (he’s the K in IGK, in case you’re wondering) at IGK’s Miami salon.

After strategic placement of foils, my highlighted sections were lifted to a buttery blonde using bleach before being toned and dyed to an ashy, smoky chestnut. “We did a very natural, skinny face frame, picked chunkier pieces out from at the bottom, cooled off the tone, and left it a couple shades lighter than your natural brunette,” Kusero told me when I asked about the process. “So when the sun hits it, it really pops, but it looks super natural,” added Kusero. “It reads like a smoky brunette, which we’re doing a lot of right now.” (My personal brunette color crush of the moment is Kaia Gerber — her dark, luminous waves are full of the dimension my strands were lacking.)

I left the salon feeling like a million bucks, with bombshell hair to match. But finding the right colorist is one thing — upkeep is another. Kusero says that brunette hair is amplified by shine. In a bid to achieve such a finish, he was careful not to take my hair too light. "It has to be a couple shades lighter than the natural hair color," Kusero told me. 

After two months of summer sun (which speeds up brassy, caramel tones in my brunette hair), I decided it was time for a DIY touch-up. IGK’s Color Depositing Conditioner in Brown Bella was name-checked by Kusero as a good option for me, so I followed the instructions and applied it on dry hair in order to achieve more dramatic results. (You can also apply it on wet hair in the shower if you’re on a time crunch.) After ten minutes, I shampooed and conditioned as normal, then waited for my hair to air-dry. I woke up to highlights that rivaled how I looked exiting the salon — and I was able to do it all at home. One tube would probably last me three, maybe four uses, but compared to in-salon glosses, the value is unbeatable for the results.

Another tip from Kusero? Limit wash days to avoid lackluster strands: “The natural oils keep the hair shiny,” he told me. Another option to boost shine instantly is to use a clear gloss for a mirror-like finish. “IGK Expensive Hi-Shine Gloss Treatment is perfect for brunettes because it’s like a top coat for hair,” Kusero said. “It leaves it super glossy and healthy.” 

Another product that utilizes color theory to neutralize unwanted tones at home is the colorist-approved Fanola No Orange Mask, a blue-colored deep conditioner that nixes warmth in brown hair. (Quick color theory lesson: Blue and orange are opposites on the color wheel, so adding blue pigment counteracts orangey tones. The same idea holds true for purple shampoos for maintaining icy blonde hair.) I'm also a big fan of blue shampoos and conditioners, which are amazing for days when I don’t have the time (nor energy) to sit for a treatment. My favorite products are in the Matrix Brass Off range, which features a shampoo and a conditioner. Though the collection doesn't deliver intense results as a hair mask might (and nor does it claim to) it still works quickly and conveniently while you shower. Best of all, it doesn't require gloves to apply and it doesn't leave a mess behind in the shower.

I used to think brunette hair was boring and unremarkable, but with my subtle highlights, I’ve never felt more beautiful — like the coolest version of myself. And as a low-maintenance girl, I love being able to save time and money by maintaining my color at home. Once these grow out, I’ll get them re-highlighted by the pros (I don’t trust myself with wielding bleach at home), but in the meantime, these products are proof that you don’t need to enter credit card debt to keep your hair color in tip-top shape. Who said blondes have more fun?