Proenza Schouler Channels Both Bikers And Samurais Without Getting Gimmicky

Every season, it's like Proenza Schouler burrows into our brains and manages to uncover things we didn't even know we wanted, and their fall '12 collection was no exception. At first glance, the boys seemed to channel biker babes as their main references, with sporty mesh, helmet-shaped clutches, knee-high boots, and moto-jacket details decorating many of the looks.

But the more subtle theme throughout was one that many designers have attempted in the past, and failed to properly deliver on: Asian iconography. It's easy to get heavy-handed with Asian references, but Jack and Lazaro managed to do it without devolving to high-slit qi paos and dynasty headgear….

In fact, the stiff cotton whites, low-slung wrap skirts, high-necked dresses, and embroidered silk bombers called to mind karate gis, samurai over-skirts, cheongsams, and '70s Bruce Lee jackets, without leaving show-goers feeling like they had just been hit over the head with a pagoda clutch. It was a collection of nuances and magical mélange, but still obvious is its amazingness. PS, we're yours!