I Thought Hair Growth Products Were A Scam — Until I Discovered These

As a beauty director, it’s hard not to be a sceptic. With dermatologists on speed dial and cosmetic chemists just an Instagram DM away, I can bust dubious skincare myths (sorry, you can’t put collagen back into your skin), and get their opinion on ingredients (hyaluronic acid isn’t all it’s cracked up to be). But having such a wealth of information at my fingertips means that I’ve become very particular about which products earn a spot on my bathroom shelf. 

I’m not sold on neck cream, nor am I a huge fan of hair gummies, and until recently, there wasn’t any room for hair growth serums, shampoos or conditioners in my routine. Honestly, I thought they were futile. Here’s the thing: Having spoken to a handful of trichologists over the years, I know that hair growth is mostly down to genetics. When it comes to hair growth shampoos especially, they tend to sit on the scalp for a short amount of time, and whether they actually do anything has long been disputed by experts. That said, it’s been hard to ignore the buzz around one hair growth brand lately. 

Enter: Typebea, the invention of singer-songwriter Rita Ora and Anna Lahey, also the founder of supplement brand Vida Glow.

When Typebea launched in April of 2024, it took many of my beauty editor peers by surprise. A handful extolled the virtues of the Strength + Length Conditioner, £23, which had made their hair feel “like silk”, while others loved that the Overnight Boosting Peptide Serum, £43, gave them three times as much volume. Unconvinced, however, I put my samples aside. It wasn’t until I’d booked in for a salon blowdry, where I happened to have my hair washed and professionally styled using the brand’s products, that I sat up and took note. It was probably the best my lengths had looked (voluminous and shiny) — and felt — (thick and strong) in a long time. I incorporated the shampoo, conditioner and serum into my own haircare routine that very weekend. 

After a month or so of using all three products, I started to get compliments on how long and healthy my hair appeared: “Are you wearing extensions?” and “Didn’t you have a bob a few moments ago?” are just a couple of common questions I’ve fielded of late. A couple of months since I started using Typebea — and now on my second bottle of shampoo — my friends can’t quite believe how quickly my hair is growing. Even my hairdresser, who listened to me moan about how my lengths were taking forever to reach my shoulders, is stunned by the abundance of new baby hairs that have suddenly sprouted along my hairline. 

Besides taking a little more care of my hair (not going to bed with it wet, investing in a microfibre towel), using the shampoo, conditioner and serum consistently is the only significant change to my routine. It got me thinking: Have I got hair growth products all wrong? And what is it about Typebea that seems to work so well?

Without subjecting you to a science lesson, both the G1 Overnight Boosting Peptide Hair Serum, £43, and Strength and Length Shampoo, £23, feature the ingredients baicapil, salicylic acid and provitamin B5. The brand claims that they promote hair growth, exfoliate the scalp and keep it moisturised respectively. The Strength and Length Conditioner, £23, also boasts baicapil and provitamin B5, with the addition of plant-based keratin said to smooth frizz, repair damage and enhance shine. Intrigued — and still a little bit doubtful — I asked independent trichologists for their thoughts on the ingredients inside everything. Mainly, I wanted to know whether I really did have some genuinely game-changing hair growth products on my hands. 

Eva Proudman, consultant trichologist FIT IAT, previously told R29 that baicapil is a plant-based ingredient derived from scutellaria baicalensis — a Chinese herb. “[This herb] has antioxidant properties that can support hair health,” said Proudman. “It is normally combined with other botanicals such as soy, which hydrates the hair and scalp, and can improve hair texture by smoothing the cuticle,” essentially making lengths appear shinier. Proudman pointed out that wheat sprouts are also used in the products. “Wheat sprouts can help to improve texture by reducing the effects of free radicals [think UV and pollution] and provide hydration and a smoothing [effect] for the hair fibre.”  

Jade Summers, resident trichologist at Hare & Bone salon, told me that she isn’t too familiar with baicapil, but she drew my attention to a 2018 study, which evaluated the effects of the ingredient in telogen effluvium, essentially hair shedding. The research presented positive outcomes for reducing hair shedding, promoting growth and overall hair density — basically the amount of hairs per square inch on the scalp. 

Less hair shedding is certainly something I’ve noticed since using all three products. While losing some hair is completely normal, there are far fewer strands to collect from the bottom of the shower when I wash it. I’m putting this down to the scalp serum, which is so lightweight, it doesn’t feel like you’ve got anything on your scalp at all. Before bed, I simply part my hair, drop the serum onto my scalp and massage it in. My hair also looks and feels thicker, which I’ll attribute to the shampoo. When I rinse it out, it feels as though like my strands have tripled in size, and this volume persists even when I rough-dry and style my hair afterwards. 

Besides baicapil, Typebea’s shampoo features salicylic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (or AHA), which penetrates into the skin on the scalp to exfoliate on a deeper level. Summers explained that salicylic acid breaks down build-up on the scalp (think sebum, remnants of dry shampoo and other styling products) to unclog hair follicles, and create a clean environment for healthy hair growth. Salicylic acid also exfoliates dead skin cells, said Proudman, helping to keep the follicles clear. 

In fact, one of the most useful things I’ve learnt from trichologists is that healthy, stronger hair is largely dependent on the condition of the scalp, which is why it's recommended to wash it as regularly as you can manage. Some experts liken the scalp to a flowerbed: If you’re looking after the soil, you’re looking after the flowers that grow from it. For that reason, salicylic acid is something I look for in all shampoo formulations. The fact that it’s pretty high up on the ingredient list in Typebea’s shampoo is most likely why my persistent flakes have subsided — and why my hair looks and feels so much healthier.  

The third star ingredient in Typebea’s shampoo and conditioner is provitamin B5, also known as panthenol. Summers pinpointed a 2021 study, which concluded that the ingredient can “elongate the anagen phase in hair follicles” — in essence, the active growth phase. The more time hair stays in this phase, the longer it can grow. Besides this, Proudman explained that provitamin B5 can encourage hair to hold on to moisture, therefore smoothing it, enhancing shine and even protecting it from damage.

With this information in mind, I’m convinced that the Strength and Length Conditioner is keeping split ends at arm’s length, and even though I’ve been using more heat on my hair, it doesn’t feel dry in the slightest. 

Lastly, while most conditioners feature silicones for shine and softness, Typebea swaps these for plant-based keratin. “[Plant-based keratin is] great to smooth and hydrate the hair without any concern of build-up,” said Summers. I have nothing against silicones in haircare — actually, I welcome them — but they can weigh fine hair down if not washed out properly, so plant-based keratin is probably a better choice for those with a similar concern.

Science aside, the anecdotal evidence for Typebea’s hair growth products is mounting. Don’t just take my word for it. On TikTok, users are looking to the scalp serum to regrow edges, while other reviewers are taking to Sephora to share impressive results complete with before and after pictures. 

Over the years, I think I’ve built a strong reputation for telling you when certain products or ingredients aren’t worth your time and hard-earned money. But even I have to admit that Typebea is a valuable investment for those who want longer, stronger and healthier hair. In fact, I’m gearing up to open my third bottle of shampoo this week...