From Lace Fronts To “Buss Downs”, A Beginner’s Guide To Buying A Wig

Church wig, Party City wig, stiff wig, slayed wig, red wig, bad wig — no matter how you’ve experienced them, wigs have always held a special place in Black culture and self-expression. Amongst other traditional and popular Black hairstyles, wigs are a facet of creativity, expression and empowerment in the Black hair space. For Black women, wigs can be a transitory protective style for the random big chop you had to do because your hair had been fried, dyed, and laid to the side one too many times (sound familiar?). They’re also fun and versatile, offering ample opportunities to switch up a look instantly; they're a quick fix for an at-home dye job gone wrong, a confidence booster for those experiencing hair loss or alopecia and sometimes even a miracle worker (the girls that get it, get it). The possibilities are truly endless, especially in 2024. 

"Wigs used to be for grannies," says Hannah Ayegbusi, founder of Honeyhand, a styling studio specialising in wigs and sew-ins. After 17 years of experience, Ayegbusi has seen countless viral moments due to her celebrated wig techniques and has seen and done it all in the hair industry. "[In the past], you'd have to be in your 90s to be [seen] wearing a wig. But now, wigs are a fashion statement. It’s part of fashion now but before, it was only for older folks," says Ayegbusi.

Times have certainly changed. The global wig and hair extension market was valued at 6.46 billion dollars in 2022 and there are more than 150 million wig tutorial videos on TikTok. With so much information at our fingertips venturing into wig territory can feel overwhelming. Wig and weave terminologies such as 360, weft, virgin, Remy, glueless, or French lace can have even the most chronically online person's head spinning. It’s important to break down the basics. To help, Unbothered has shared maintenance tips, wig types and everything in between to help beginners transition from wig novice to buss down baddie. 

One of the biggest financial decisions you’ll make when choosing a wig is whether to go down the synthetic or human hair route. When it comes to quality human hair wigs are the gold standard. Real human hair is used to make a wig unit that looks and feels natural. They offer versatility because they can be styled with heat and dyed. However, they require more maintenance and can come with a high price tag. Human hair wigs are perfect for those who want to invest in a long-lasting, high-quality wig that can be styled however they want. Ethically, it's also important to research a wig company's credibility to understand how human hair is sourced.

Synthetic wigs, on the other hand, are made from man-made fibres and mimic the look of human hair. They are more affordable than human hair wigs and come in a variety of styles and colours. While they don’t typically last as long as human hair wigs (depending on how you treat them) synthetic wigs hold their style after washes so you don’t have to style them every day and you get more wear out of them. 

When it comes to the price tag, synthetic wigs are usually the more affordable option, with prices ranging from around £25 to £120 depending on the vibe you’re going for (they are also widely accessible with some synthetic wigs available to purchase from Amazon). Human hair wigs are an entirely different story; these can start at £150 and go all the way up to £1,200 or more for customised units. Check out brands like HoneyHand, Ruka Hair, and Gina Knight Wig Design, for human and synthetic hair wigs in European and natural coily textures. Whether you're looking for your first synthetic wig or have decided that human hair units are your only way of life these brands are doing it for the culture. “It’s easy and harmless to try on a wig. There’s no damage to your actual hair,” says Ayegbusi. “But if you do decide to try, do your research. And if you’re going to invest, choose quality.”

Lace front wigs have become a go-to for many women who want an install with a natural-looking hairline and versatile styling options. But not all lace is created equal. Two common lace types are HD (high definition) lace and French lace—both offer unique benefits depending on the look you’re going for.

HD lace: HD lace is thin and made to blend with any skin tone. This makes it ideal for Black women who want an undetectable hairline and the most realistic look possible. HD lace is also extremely delicate so it requires gentle hands. 

French lace: French lace is thicker and more durable than HD lace, making it a great option for those looking for longevity from their wig. It’s still very natural-looking but may not melt into the skin like HD lace. If you’re new to wigs and want something that will last, French lace might be a better option while you’re getting the hang of application and care.

If you’ve spent even a minute on social media or listened to any rap song, then you’ve probably heard the term “buss down”. It’s a sleek, bone-straight wig that lays flat and is usually worn with a middle part at ridiculously long, luxurious lengths by the girls. In 2017, Nicki Minaj gave us many things, but the meme of her boarding a private jet to Prague is forever cemented in our memories—not because of the luxury of it all, but because of the jet-black, 40-inch hair that swished in her wake. Since then, we’ve seen social media stars like Jayda Cheaves, a.k.a. Jayda Wayda, dubbed the queen of the middle part buss down. The women in rap starter pack definitely includes a buss down (if you have the coins), because everyone from Cardi B to Ice Spice has been seen with their own take on the style.

To get the look you'll need a good wig and an immaculate application technique. If you’re a beginner a wig stylist will be essential. 

Choose a quality wig: To get a buss down look, go for a human hair lace front or full lace wig. The key is how natural the hairline and middle parting space appear, so lace is important here.

Foundation: Before applying the wig, make sure your natural hair is as flat as possible—either braided tightly or slicked down with gel. A flat foundation is crucial for getting a laid look.

Perfect your melt: "Melting" refers to the wig hairline being nearly invisible and melting your lace is basically the deciding factor in how natural your wig will look. Use adhesive or a wig band to lay your lace flat against your hairline. 

“Wigs encourage confidence in Black women because hair is such a visual thing,” says Ayegbusi. “When they get a wig that doesn’t look like a wig, it boosts their confidence, whether it’s for a birthday party or just their 9-to-5 job. I’ve seen my creations do that for women.”

​​One of the most intimidating aspects of wigs is mastering the application process, but it doesn’t have to be complicated. Here’s a breakdown of the most common methods:

Glueless: Glueless wigs come with adjustable straps and combs to secure them without the use of adhesive. This method is quick, easy, and great for daily wear. It’s also ideal for beginners who want to avoid the mess of glue or tape.

Glue: Glue application is popular if you want to wear your wig for several days because it has a longer hold. A thin layer of bonding glue specifically made for wig application, such as the Got2B Glued Styling Gel (£5.50) and Freeze Blasting Spray (£5.50) is used along the hairline and the lace is pressed into it. Use a blow dryer on cool to set the glue and a wig band to ensure the lace melts into your skin. This method requires lots of practice but it also ensures your wig stays in place. Incorrect application and removal of abrasive wig glue can cause damage to fragile hairlines and even hyperpigmentation along the forehead after prolonged use, so again, it's wise to seek professional help.

Sew-in: If you want a semi-permanent option, sew-ins are another route. A closure or lace frontal can be sewn into your natural hair. Sew-ins are perfect if you want a more stable option without having to reapply the wig every day.

There is no better time than now to try out a wig. Even if you’re new to wearing wigs, there are millions of videos that can guide you on your journey, as well as hair stylists who offer one-on-one sessions. Whether you experiment with synthetic hair or go all-in with a full-lace human hair wig, enjoy the journey of figuring out what works best for you. Explore different styles and colours to see what resonates with you. There’s a whole community of young, middle age and older women who are on the same journey of trying something new, so reach out to your hair community for advice and inspiration. "Once upon a time, wigs were daunting,” says Ayegbusi. “Now people see them as a fashion statement. Whether it’s a buss down wig or a pixie wig, it’s just become part of the culture.”