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If New York Fashion Week can be defined as, at times, too cool for its own good, Milan Fashion Week remains a site of earnest decadence; of showgoers dressed to the nines even early in the morning; of runways boasting sequins, fringe, beading, tulle, and other super-feminine detailing.
What the week lacked, though, was the kind of integration of social justice issues into runway performances that other cities have begun to do, with just a few exceptions — Vogue Italia announced a partnership with Yoox to support emerging sustainable designers, and Diesel hosted an event all about upcycling. For the most part, though, paper invites piled up and runways were covered in plastic. Meanwhile, Paloma Elsesser and Jill Kortleve made history as the first plus-sized models to walk in Fendi. They were, however, the only plus models I spotted for the entire week, leading me to question whether or not designers in this beautiful city are willing to accommodate their increasingly vocal customer bases.
Fur was also extremely present at the shows of many major designers, an interesting choice given the growing dissidence towards its use in fashion (though many argue that fur is more sustainable than synthetic options).
All that being said, the craftsmanship displayed on the runways was inspiring, and there were several very clear trends that emerged over the course of the week. From puffy sleeves to suits with fringe, it seems designers in Milan have one thing on the brain: Making a statement. Subtlety has no place in Milan’s fashion scene, where the louder the piece, the better.
Ahead, our favorite trends from Milan Fashion Week.
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