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5 Skin Tweaks A Dermatologist Told Me To Make For Spring

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Photographed by Sarah Harry-Isaacs
Spring is in full swing, which means a few things. First, it's time to run your trusty lightweight trench coat to the dry cleaners. Second, those Easter holiday plans won't make themselves. Lastly, it could be a good idea to switch up your skincare routine.
After months of drying central heating and near-freezing temperatures, you probably swaddled your parched skin with the most unctuous moisturizer you could find. Perhaps you tried a TikTok trend like 'skin flooding' (layering serums and moisturisers onto damp skin for better hydration), or maybe the cloudy days tricked you into ditching the sunscreen (though it's a must — even in winter). Regardless, the upcoming warmer and (hopefully) sunnier weather is set to usher in a new set of skincare needs.
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"The skin can change in various ways from winter to spring due to shifts in temperature, humidity and sun exposure," explains Dr. Hiba Injibar, consultant dermatologist at Dermasurge Clinic. "In colder months, the skin can become dry and flaky due to the harsh winter weather and indoor heating," she says. "But as spring arrives and the weather becomes warmer, the skin is likely to retain more moisture and feel less dry."
That's a positive thing, of course, but Dr. Injibar adds that it's important to remember that spending more time outside in the warmer weather means a higher risk of sun damage. Spring also brings high pollen counts, which can trigger allergies and cause flare-ups of skin irritations like eczema. "Changes in temperature and humidity can also impact acne-prone skin," says Dr. Injibar, as increased humidity can cause excess oil production, leading to more breakouts.
So what can you do to keep your skin happy? Ahead, Dr. Injibar shares skincare advice and useful hacks that you might find indispensable heading into spring and beyond.

Rethink your current moisturizer

While it may sound obvious to shelve your thick moisturizer in favor of something lighter in texture, Dr. Injibar explains exactly why it's important to adjust your products to accommodate the changing weather: "As the weather warms up, our skin may produce more oil, which can lead to breakouts if heavy creams are used." She says that switching to a lighter moisturizer — or even just a serum if your skin is very oily — can help prevent clogged pores. 
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If your chosen lightweight moisturizer contains sunscreen, that's even better. Try Byoma Moisturizing Gel-Cream SPF 30, $19.79, which absorbs quickly and doesn't feel greasy, or CeraVe AM Lotion Face Moisturizer with SPF 50, $19.99. If you're spending longer periods outside in the sun or working near a window, research shows that a targeted sunscreen product (rather than a moisturizer with added SPF) offers higher protection. R29 rates Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Face Serum SPF 60+, $22.49, or Ultra Violette Supreme Screen Hydrating Facial Skinscreen SPF 50+, $36, if you have more to spend. Both can be used on their own or layered over moisturizers and serums.

Vitamin C & SPF are the ultimate duo

"A vitamin C serum can be a great investment for your skincare routine during springtime," says Dr. Injibar. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that shields the skin against the environment, such as dulling and pore-clogging pollution. "It can also help to brighten and even out the skin tone, boosting collagen production for firmer skin," says Dr. Injibar. But it doesn't have to be expensive to work. Try The Inkey List's 15% Vitamin C and EGF Serum, $16, which also boasts epidermal growth factors — essentially, skin-repairing proteins that promote collagen and elastin in the skin. R29 also recommends Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum, $20.99. If your skin is reactive or sensitive, try The Ordinary's Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%, $14.80.
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Team your chosen vitamin C serum with sunscreen, which deflects UV rays, and you've got a pretty airtight spring skincare routine, especially if you're spending more time outdoors. "After you have cleansed, apply a vitamin C serum around the eyes and face," says Dr. Injibar, "then apply your SPF30+ broad-spectrum sunscreen on top." A broad-spectrum sunscreen protects against both UVA rays (responsible for premature aging) and UVB rays (which result in sunburn). "Even on cloudy days, harmful UV rays can still penetrate the skin, leading to sun damage and premature aging," adds Dr. Injibar, "so it's important to wear sunscreen every day, regularly applying when spending time outdoors."

Choose the right sunscreen

Dr. Injibar suggests looking for sunscreen that complements your skin type. "For instance, if you have oily skin, look for an 'oil-free' sunscreen," she says. Try EltaMD UV Clear Face Sunscreen SPF 46, Oil-Free Sunscreen, $44. "If you have dry skin, look for SPF30+ with added moisturizer," she continues. We love Paula's Choice RESIST Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50, $39.
If you have sensitive skin conditions such as eczema, Dr. Injibar explains that they could worsen in spring, thanks to allergies and pollen. "Apply sunscreens formulated with sensitive skin in mind, which contain no fragrance and don't irritate the skin," she says. Try La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral Tinted Ultra Light Face Sunscreen Fluid SPF 50, $39.99.
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Look for skincare products containing these ingredients

First up, hyaluronic acid. Not every skin expert is convinced that you need a dedicated hyaluronic acid serum, as the hydrating ingredient is in plenty of moisturizers and sunscreens already. Anyone can benefit from incorporating it into their skincare routine, but if your skin tends to feel tight and uncomfortable after cleansing, this could be a sign that it's dehydrated — in which case, hyaluronic acid may be especially useful. "Hyaluronic acid is a humectant [draws water into the skin], which can add lightweight hydration to the skin without feeling heavy or greasy," says Dr. Injibar. "It both attracts and holds onto moisture, rejuvenating dull, dehydrated skin to give it a plump appearance."
Then there are ceramides. "These are naturally occurring lipids [or fats] in the skin that help to keep it hydrated and healthy," says Dr. Injibar. Look for a moisturizer or a sunscreen that contains ceramides (like CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF 50, $19.99) to help strengthen the skin barrier and prevent moisture loss. Dr. Injibar adds that ceramides are perfect for post-sun exposure, too. As a bonus, the CeraVe lotion also contains niacinamide (often referred to as vitamin B3). "Niacinamide is also a great ingredient for improving the skin barrier, reducing inflammation, and regulating oil production," says Dr. Injibar.
Lastly, if you have sunburn from spring weather, Dr. Injibar recommends aloe vera, a soothing and cooling ingredient to calm inflamed skin. "While aloe vera cannot cure sunburn, it can help to alleviate the symptoms [such as redness and soreness] and ease the irritation," she says. "A lightweight moisturizing lotion that contains aloe vera will help provide symptomatic relief." Try The Ordinary's Aloe 2% + NAG 2% Solution Serum, $14.90, for your face, and Milk + Honey Body Cream, $38, for your body.
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How to stave off spring breakouts

So you've got your daytime skincare routine sorted, but the evening is when you might like to step things up a notch, particularly if you find yourself breaking out more when the weather heats up.
"To help control excess oil and occasional breakouts, a lightweight cream containing retinol or glycolic acid can be used at night," says Dr. Injibar: "Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, which helps to regulate oil production and unclog pores, while glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin and helps to reduce the appearance of blemishes."
Whichever ingredient you use is all down to personal preference, but considering both are potent, it's best to choose one and stick with it. Layering them could irritate in the form of red, sore, and flaky skin. If you're a retinol beginner, try Naturium Retinol Complex Serum, $20.99. If you're a seasoned retinol user and want to dial things up, try Medik8 Crystal Retinal, $65. (Retinal works a little faster and more effectively than the usual over-the-counter retinol.)
If your spot-prone skin doesn't get on with glycolic acid or retinol, Dr. Injibar recommends a gentle product containing exfoliating salicylic acid, which she says can help manage oily skin and breakouts during warmer weather. Try Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Exfoliating Toner, $35, layered underneath a simple and bland moisturizer. "If you have acne," continues Dr. Injibar, "you may require a stronger treatment plan." Dr. Injibar says it's important to consult with a dermatologist or skincare expert to determine the most appropriate treatment for your specific skin type, and to ensure you are using these ingredients in the right percentage.
Lastly, if you're using any of the aforementioned ingredients, always apply sunscreen during the day, as they can make skin sensitive to sunlight.
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