Jonathan Van Ness Gave Me “Ghost Layers” & It’s My Most Complimented Haircut

Since growing out my bob, I found myself in a hair rut. Once sharp and purposeful, my lengths had begun to fall lifelessly around my shoulders — and not even my failsafe claw clip could work its usual magic. So when I met Queer Eye superstar and JVN Hair founder Jonathan Van Ness at the recent launch of his Repair range, I have to admit that I was a little embarrassed (especially when I realised he’d be the one blow-drying my hair).

My split ends made it obvious I was long overdue for a trim, but before I could even apologise for the state of my hair, his scissors were already glinting in his hand. You see, few people could convince me to say yes to an impromptu haircut, but Van Ness is one of them. A firm non-negotiable? I didn’t want him to cut too much length off. 

Much to the envy of my beauty editor peers, Van Ness spent nearly an hour snipping and perfecting. When I looked at the floor, there was a heap of hair, but when I glanced in the mirror, it looked like I’d just had a refresh; my lengths felt lighter and swishier and had a lot more shape. That’s when I realised that Van Ness had unwittingly given me the smartest haircut of the moment. 

Enter: ghost layers.

LA-based hairstylist Ramòn Garcia is the mastermind behind ghost layers, essentially “invisible” layers that add shape and movement but blend seamlessly into the rest of the lengths. Although the cut is not new, it's seen a resurgence lately, likely thanks to the rise of ghost waves — the 2025 iteration.

Ghost waves were coined by hairstylist Tom Smith, who has earned the moniker “hairvoyant” for his ability to predict season-defining haircut trends — and this one is sure to take over spring. The look is named after its subtle, barely-there waves, which Smith describes as softly undulating in an ‘s’ shape. Undetectable layers further enhance the waves, creating extra dimension. 

I didn’t even need to tell Van Ness what I wanted; he instinctively knew how to cut the style. After washing my hair with JVN Revive Repairing Shampoo, £21, and Revive Repairing Conditioner, £21, Van Ness added a generous pump of Revive Rapid Repair Bond Gloss, £31, from root to tip and got started by carefully dusting away my split ends. Then he added a handful of invisible layers through my mid-lengths and ends. The key, he said, was not cutting them too short. Mine end about an inch — or in some spots, two — from the longest pieces, so even when my hair is pin straight, they camouflage into the rest of the length. 

To prevent my hair from drying in a triangular shape, Van Ness used thinning scissors to reduce bulk, making it easier to style and air-dry. He finished the look by cutting in a long, graduated curtain fringe to add a little more dimension. 

Ghost layers with waves are an unexpectedly relaxed style for spring, says Smith, and while the cut can be coiffed with a curling wand or shaped using a blowdry brush, accidentally perfect waves can also be achieved by air-drying if your hair has a natural bend, like digital creators Nicole and Franny below. A cream-based hair product — like JVN Hair Complete Air Dry Cream, £24 — will minimise frizz and impart shine. Also consider trying a mermaid waver — a tong with three barrels, like Hershesons The Multi-Tasker, £196 — to further enhance natural waves. The final step is to use a wide-tooth comb, rather than a brush, to separate the waves for a lived-in feel, suggests Smith. 

I like to style my hair by spritzing Typebea’s S.2 Sea Salt Texture Mist, £23, which offers hold and heat protection up to 210°, into towel-dried lengths before blow-drying using a paddle brush. Then I reach for my trusty ghd Chronos Hair Straightener, £289, to fashion some delicate bends. Twisting the straightener halfway through each pass will create soft, natural-looking waves. Lastly, I pull my fingers through my lengths to break up the waves for a relaxed, effortlessly tousled finish. 

Styling is pretty easy, but what I love most about the ghost layers haircut is how it grows out seamlessly. Unlike other layered styles that can eventually create an obvious step-like effect, this one maintains a smooth transition. The compliments I've received from others have been a welcome bonus, too. No previous haircut has amassed as much love as this one — people keep commenting on how much fuller and healthier my lengths look. Even better, the invisible layers and feathery curtain bangs add shape to my hair, making it look great without the need for over-styling.

If your hairstylist isn't familiar with ghost layers with waves, simply ask for soft, subtle layers that enhance your natural texture; a fringe is optional. For a more polished look, request gentle bends created with a straightener or a flat curling iron. ghd’s Curve Classic Wave Wand, £159, is a popular tool in many salons. 

Getting my hair cut by the legendary Jonathan Van Ness may have been a one-off, but it’s safe to say that I’ll be asking my hairdresser for ghost layers from now on. The undetectable layers and the way they take shape when styled have completely won me over. It’s the ultimate cut for anyone who wants high-impact hair with minimal maintenance.