Photo: Courtesy of Pati Dubroff. With a list of high-profile clients, including starlets such as
Charlize Theron, Natalie Portman, Kate Bosworth, Naomi Watts, Kate Upton, Miley Cyrus, and Sofia Coppola, Dubroff definitely has the market cornered on gorgeous. But, c'mon, even the prettiest of faces has its challenges, so we asked the makeup master for advice on how to keep our visages melt-proof and flawless this summer.
Live in the Windy City? Dubroff will be in town for The Makeup Show this weekend. Attend seminars, score some discounted product, and more. Click here for additional information.
A lot of women have a problem with going to the beach completely fresh-faced. What are your thoughts?
"BB creams are the perfect solution to give a touch of coverage, an even finish, and additional sun protection for the face. I'm loving Kiehl's new BB cream for the face right now. Also, waterproof eye products are a summer staple. Make Up For Ever has two new items this year in its Aqua range: Aqua Matic eyeshadow and Aqua Smoky Extravagant mascara. Aqua Matic is so easy to use and it really defines the eye. And then, you can finish off the look with Aqua Smoky Extravagant to enhance the lashes without worrying about smudges (as long as you remember not to rub your eyes!). I never use powders for beach days, and only use tinted lip balms to give lips a bit of color."
What's one of the number one complaints celebrities have when they sit in your chair, and what techniques do you use to fix it?
"All women want to have flawless looking skin without wearing a mask of foundation or heavy powders. This is probably the biggest challenge: How to get coverage without a lot of product. I use mattifying primers through the center of face to reduce the need for powdering, as well as for filling and blurring pores and fine lines. I often use two shades of foundation applied slowly with a brush. The lighter shade through the center and the slightly deeper on the perimeter of face to achieve brightness and contour. I work the foundation in slowly and will use a sponge to sheer it out even more. Loose powder is used in moderation — only through your T-zone and if you are under the glare of cameras."
Is it stressful having the pressure to produce amazing red-carpet makeup that will no doubt be celebrated — or criticized — the next morning?
"It can be very stressful, but I do everything I can to keep stress to a minimum. I try to work with people who don't like to create drama — ideally I have worked on the person before. And, regardless of whether or not I have, I conduct a lot of research and create mood boards beforehand. It’s important to be on the same page with the whole team, hair plus styling and, of course, the actress."
What are the top prepping steps we should do to ensure that we have a flawless makeup application?
"As mentioned, I use a matte primer in the center of the face and will sometimes use a luminzing primer on the high [planes of the face] prior to makeup. It’s important to not be too slick with moisturizers or oils just before makeup, and eye cream should be kept to a minimum to ensure you don't get any smudges. I always make sure lips are buffed and hydrated, and the neck looks just as good as face."
How can we ensure we have melt-proof makeup when the air is as thick as pea soup?
"Along with the moisturizer tips I provided, primers (face and eye) can really help. Use water resistant products for lip, eye, and brow, and replace powder with blotting papers to avoid a heavy and coagulated appearance."
Purple and aquatic-colored eyes made a huge impact on the runways for summer 2014. What are some cool and surprising ways we can wear them this summer?
"I like to keep the color subtle. So, I use a pop of aqua on the lashline concentrated in the center of the lid, or a swipe on the waterline only. I also like to create a gentle cat-eye with a pop of color — sometimes just the color alone, or layered on top of a black or gray for more depth."
How can we find the best shade of orange — the hot summer lip color for 2014 — for our skin tone?
"Orange is so tricky. I tend to stay away from a true orange unless the skin tone is very dark. When I reach for orange, it's usually an orange-red or a coral tone. Very fair women tend to look best with peach tones — and there are some gorgeous peach tones that have vibrancy. Medium skin tones can take coral tones, but if someone has a lot of pink in their skin, it's important to harmonize it with a coral that has a balance of pink and orange. The bright-red orange looks best on someone who has a touch of warmth in the skin, or who is very, very pale and can handle the contrast."